The Waistcoat
Hello,
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I have just started the waistcoat video series and am very excited to begin! However, before I cut any cloth I want get my draft as good as it can be. But I have hit a bit of a snag and have a couple of questions on the draft.
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I have been working from both the video series and the pattern drafting book. I noticed it reads in the top right hand corner of the pattern drafting book ‘Finished: 1/2 chest plus 1 ¼ inches. 1/2 waist plus 1 ¼ inches.’
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I have done two drafts so far. One to the sample size and one to my own measurements.
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My draft for the sample size comes up as plus 2 inches for both the half chest and the half waist, or with a 4 inch ease.
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My sample draft is as follows:
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Pt 8 to pt 2 is half chest plus 3 inches, which I calculate as 23 inches using the sample measurements. The shape of the centre back line reduces this by just over a ¼ inch, and measuring to the button stand reduces this a further 5/8’s, taking the chest measurement down to 22 inches.  Have I missed something crucial out in the placement of my lines? Or understanding of the draft?
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My second question is that when I complete the draft using my own measurements the waist is very tight as the difference between my chest and waist is only a drop of 2 inches (chest 36, waist 34). To give myself the correct, and  comfortable, amount of ease at the waist, is it best to alter the back and reduce the VWS, the amount taken out of the side seams (pt 17 and pt18) or to reduce the intake of the the front dart? Or a combination of all three?
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Many thanks for any advice or help,
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Andy
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