Hi I'm interested in cutting for different leg figurations. I've been comparing different ways of dealing with bow legs.
One way to allow for bow legs is to move the centre line towards the outseam at the knee and then back towards in the inseam at the hem.
Another way I've seen it done quite a few times, especially in womenswear, is to pivot the lower part of the leg below either using the centre line in the middle of the knee as the pivot or using the point where kneeline meets the inseam as pivot. Then some extra width is added at the knee on the inseam and the equivalent taken off at the outside, to maintain the original knee width and to give a closed leg illusion.
The first way moves the centreline at the knee out, the second way moves the centreline at the knee in. Which is a better solution to the bow legged figuration?
The first way is what you taught me (take the centre knee point out/centre hem in). The second way (pivot lower leg in at centre knee) I learnt ages ago at college. I'm experimenting with both at the moment. The knee seems a bit narrow - just doesn't look right - so widening that should make a difference, hide the bow!
Is the second method you describe the way I taught you or something else?
The difficulty with the first method is that you can’t use patterned cloth. The second method you CAN but there’s some difficulty to it as you’re dropping the inside leg balance.
I have done both and been satisfied with the results
I know YOU did the course. Just took the opportunity to plug it.
Hi Rory - yes I did the course! The first way is working well for me - I agree about the 2D nature, so I was wondering if the second way was better at creating an illusion of straightness.
I teach this as part of my online course Pattern Drafting for Bespoke menswear. I have seen the first example, move the knee point out 1 1/2” and take the hem point in 1” on the centre crease line. This example is included in the book, but I do feel it’s a very 2D way of treating a 3D problem