Hi as i watched the video maybe i missed a mention of any edge finishes used. serger zigzag do i need to finish any edges,if so which? Thank you in advance
Think I know what you are asking.Might be an idea to reference an episode so I give the correct advice.If it’s the edge tape, the front edge is seamed to the facing at a 1/4” and then turned in on itself requiring no further finishing.
@beamgoes99.am Only exposed seam allowances need to be overlocked to prevent fraying. The coat has a lining so everything is covered. In traditional tailoring only leg seams of trousers need to be overlocked.
@alix01 When I made a pair of higher-end, traditional trousers in a class we had the option of finishing the seam allowances with hand overcasting or machine overlocking. I tried both. The teacher told us that hand overcasting is a slow process even for people with experience. Whether to do it is a matter of taste. We did it in white basting thread; apparently, that is a look that some customers like.
I don't know about bespoke tailoring, but in couture tailoring, hand overcasting sometimes is preferred because a machine overlocker stitch might create a visible ridge from the outside. Men's fabrics tend to be thicker so that might not be a consideration.
Believe me NO one on Savile Row is doing overcast stitching on their trousers.There were a few changes that came about during the recession of 70’s & 80’s.All the apprentices were fired and the companies bought an overlocker for the trouser makers and blind stitchers for the coat makers.During the recession of 08, they kept on the apprentices and made them hand pad the lapels and collars.
Some coat makers will over-lock a coat if the cloth is hand woven or very loose.
I think back in those days you could lease an over-locker and blind stitch.
Think I know what you are asking. Might be an idea to reference an episode so I give the correct advice. If it’s the edge tape, the front edge is seamed to the facing at a 1/4” and then turned in on itself requiring no further finishing.