Collar - Will try the hand stitch method..
Sleeve - There are diagonal lines going from the high front sleeve to the low back sleeve
cuff - The cuffs dont seem to want to close flat though they lay nice and flat if I am not wearing it. I think I remember another post on these forums where a poster recommended stretching the elbow area of the top sleeve.
back vent - I don't know what happened there lol.
Anything else?
Your diagram is correct - think of the sleeve like the hand of a clock: as it rotates around, all the pitch marks will shift the same amount accordingly. Your 'clock hand' is currently pointing at 8 o'clock, but you want to rotate it to point to 7 o'clock, you see?
If you rotate the sleeve backwards, the sleeve front pitch will be set below the front pitch on the bodice of the coat. The sleeve back pitch will be set higher than the back pitch on the coat. Although this will affect the sleeve cap notch & shoulder seam, I wouldn't use the cap notch & shoulder seam to assess pitch as the fullness in the sleeve cap makes it less reliable as a guide.
Also, when you mean the balance is off, what do you mean? are you saying that I've sewn the right and left side seams differently? I've identified a lot of things thanks to you guys.
Benjamin, now that I look at the cuffs, they do seem to hang a bit low and I shall shorten the sleeves :).
Benjamin and Rory: I am not understanding what to do with the pitch. So, the problem is that my sleeves are pitched a bit too forward. The pitch is the angle of the sleeve (neutral pitch being where the sleeve cap notch matches the shoulder seam of the armhole). So, when you mean to 'drop' the front pitch, do you mean to match the sleeve cap notch 3/4" infront of the shoulder line seam? Also, when I am to raise the back pitch, where exactly am I raising it from and where? or am i rotating everything 3/4" forward?
Picture for armhole and sleeve reference, black line that comes out of the circle is the sleeve notch, and the red line inside the circle is the armhole shoulder line, front, and back notch.
is this what you guys mean?
Benjamin’s analysis is correct. Drop the front pitch 3/4” and raise the back pitch by the same amount. It’s possible that your back balance is slightly off at the side seams and that’s creating the twist seen on the back of the coat around the centre back and blade area.
It looks pretty good, and you should be proud of your work. It does have some flaws, though, but it's a spectacular effort otherwise.
Those folds on your sleeve are caused by it being pitched too far forward, or at least the back sleeve pitch needs to be raised by maybe 10-15mm. Try removing a sleeve and re-baste it in raising the back pitch and lowering the front pitch accordingly. Post photos of the results and we'll take a look.
Sleeves are too long at the cuff, which might be why they aren't sitting correctly. I think the sleeve cuff should sit around the first joint of your thumb (where it joins the wrist). I'd say you could raise the sleeve cuffs maybe 3cm (possibly even more) and see how they sit then.