I have been slowly working on my fist pair of trousers. I didn't use the Dugdale trimming package. I already had some fabric and I was able to find all the other items locally. I also wanted to make pleated trousers that where waisted, not hip rise. I have a narrow leg figuration so I drafted my center line on 1 instead of 1B and then squared up. on the waist I marked 3/4 inches away from the center line and cut down to point Z. I inserted 2 inches of paper at the waist tapering down to point Z. The two extra inches are for one 1 inch pleat. Folded on the center line. I followed instructions from Stanley Hostek's Men's Pattern Drafting book.
Issues I see are: right front pocket has strange crease in it and pokes out at side a bit. I think I need to re-sew the side seam to fix this. The seat has some issues, the back thighs are baggy. Not sure if my pleats are too narrow? The right pleat is opening due to the right pocket. I am not sure how to fix all these issues. The back pockets seem close to the side seam, Should they be placed closer to the center of the seat? I would like to get the forums opinion of my fitting and any advice on how to amend. I have posted some pictures below.
Blurry but you can see the issues with the right pocket and pleat.
I was going for a fuller/classic fit, but are these just too big? They feel comfortable. I have a rather large thighs and seat. I always have the problem of tightness on my front thighs, so I wanted a more classic fit.
The Left side looks better than the right.
Ok, not sure how to fix the seat, and baggy thighs. I have tried shrinking with an iron already, maybe I could do more.
Do the back pockets seem too far on the sides?
They look pretty good to me.
I'd move those pockets a bit more to the back, yes. Maybe measure from a pair of commercial pants you already have to get an idea of the kind of distances which should be appropriate. Not sure what's happening with that right pleat... Looks like some kind of internal tension..? The back is baggy, yes, but I don't think that's such a bad thing. You might be able to fix it by straightening the seat seam, but I'd leave it personally because a bit of extra length in the back can make them more comfortable for sitting in. I'd say they are wearable - still 1,000 times better than the garbage we buy in the stores nowadays!