Hello all,
You may have seen some of my other posts but I'm making the coat using Rory's series as part of my University Dissertation research.
I am writing about tailoring and the differences in technique, materials, fit and cut etc. between the 1800s and modern day. I'm also looking to learn more about the different cloths used and the production of them in the North of England.
Who was doing the tailoring and working in the mills and what their different job roles looked like is also of interest as one side of my family were tailors and one side worked in mills so I would like to find out more about their lives through this dissertation.
I am also looking at modern suits, both high street and bespoke to analyse the difference in techniques and cloths used. I would love to hear from some people who either wear suits regularly or make them to find out their experiences with wearing different cloths and the sustainability and longevity between high street suits and bespoke.
As the coat I'm making with The HTA is the 'modern' one I'm also looking to make one with an 1800s cut using as historically accurate techniques and materials as possible so I can compare the two. I've found quite a few tailoring books about making historical suits but as they are modern all of the coats seem to be more of a theatre costume focus rather than historically accurate. Again, if any of you make suits for Film and TV I'd be interested to know the difference in making these compared to making them for everyday wear.
As you can see the subject matter is quite broad at the moment but if any of you have any suggestions or are happy to chat about your experiences with any of these things I would really appreciate it.
Thank you!
I know this is a rather old post but I was just wondering if you had completed your research and made your historical garment yet? I wish I would've been on here a year ago as I have spent quite a few years now studying and making Victorian and other garments bespoke. Mostly American Civil War officer's uniforms but they are bespoke. I have studied Devere's book on Practical Cutting on the Centre Point system quite extensively and use it daily for drafting patterns of all types. I am now moving into modern bespoke tailoring. If you have completed your garments I would love to see them and read your dissertation.
I just scanned my copy of Textiles on Test for another forum. Shirt makers may be interested in pages 163-165. Here you go:
https://archive.org/details/textiles-on-test-j-guilfoyle-williams_202103/mode/2up
and of cause, The School of Historical Dress in London can help you further.
The book written by Vintagebursche and Sebastain Hoofs I cannot reconmend for research. Although this project is nice, it is not a source of historically valuable knowledge for research purpose. In the preface they clearly state that this book does not aim to be historically correct. They give an idea of menswear from the 1920's. (hier is the art historian speaking!)
What is of interest is the pattern drafting systems Hoofs has used. I guess he used Carré System and Leibold. Maybe also Schneidermeister (I have a digital version from 1938 if you are interested)
Tom van het Hof is indeed of interest. He studied at Meesteropleiding coupeur Amsterdam. They have a great archive of tailoring books. In the final exam studens have to recreate a historical or modern garment, involving the tailoring techniques of that time. Ask if they are willing to assist you for research. And Amsterdam is quite a nice City.
The Kunstmuseum Den Haag has an exqisit collection of garments. Students from Meesteropleiding coupeur are welkom there for there research on period garments. The curator is happy to assist students focosing on the making process as it is different from what they do.
Last year publicaton "how to read a suit" from a costum historian can be interesting for you.
Are able to read German??? If so I can send you a link to some old tailoring books about sewing techniques from the 1950-1960's.
THis website offers a lot of historical tailoring books to download free. Good stuff, but all about pattern drafting. https://www.cuttersguide.com/
the Victorian Tailor by Jason Maclochlainn might be interesting, but I don't know if it is historical correct. https://www.bol.com/nl/f/the-victorian-tailor-an-introduction-to-period-tailoring/33078756/
The Museum De Lakenhal, Leiden/The Netherlands started a nice project some years ago. The former center of weaving, they did research in cloth qualities. In colaboration with an British mill, they recreated a cloth which represent the quallity of cloth on a 17th century painting - De Keurmeesters -
Be aware that the cloth befor WWII were much heavier than we are used to today. A 460gr tweed would have been a kind od light weight fabric at that time. Interlinings were thick and heavy like carpets. The main fabric for interlinings was linen and horsehair.
Some spontainious thoughts that came to my mind. Hope it helps.....
Heather, may I forward your request? I have some contacts both in Twitter and on my Discord Sewing channel, who might be able to help out.
Oh ... and when can I order a copy of your dissertation? Sounds like something I would definitely want to read!
These are a few youtube vids/channels that I've found of interest. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCatJbAEjsOky12VsAAwjCLg/videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5PoCJ0iQIE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THzNFKwrIOM
https://www.youtube.com/c/Vintagebursche/videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYdAnvfJRFc
Re cloths used, if you're not aware of it already, it might be an idea to track down a copy of Textiles on Test by J Guilfoyle Williams. Perhaps an inter-library/British Library loan?
It's very detailed though, possibly more than you want; but it does cover all the fabrics and manufacturing/dying processes such as they were in 1931 (and they probably hadn't progressed that much since the late 19th century). The appendix has a long list of other publications that might also be useful.
I'm sure you're aware of this already, but just in case, Internet Archive has scores of old cutting books from the Regency Period onwards. Not much on construction, though Practical Tailoring by J E Liberty (another 1930s book) covers some of what you'll need to know with respect to older methods. Download here (two part-process): https://dlscrib.com/queue/practical-tailoring-by-j-e-liberty-1933_589659f46454a7c17cb1e963_pdf?queue_id=59980adbdc0d609538300d17 There are a number of Youtube enthusiasts too who recreate historical garments.