I am currently using a size 14 needle to sew my garments and a question about deflection has come up as my sleeve seams are not coming out straight and puckered.
Could this be due to needle flexing?
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I am currently using a size 14 needle to sew my garments and a question about deflection has come up as my sleeve seams are not coming out straight and puckered.
Could this be due to needle flexing?
Have you worked this out yet? What I find odd is that it didn't happen on the other seams – if it were the needle flexing, presumably it would? I guess there's a lot of fullness there, which would suggest a slipping issue over a flexing issue.
I think 14 in an industrial machine should be just fine. Thinking about it as I walked my dog this morning.
1) Have you got the sleeve head roll in yet? THIS will smooth it out a LOT, the sleeve head roll completely transforms the look of the sleeve head
2) Did you have the basting too tight or the spacing two great? I always use aspacing of about 3/8th wiht the first run, then I do 3/8th but directly opposite way to pull the two parts together and squash the ease flat and then a 3rd row in between the first stitches to halve the size of any ripples
3) Here is a picture of a linen jacket made to the JP Thornton pattern book of 1900 in the TV program Downtown Abby
Suit shoulders are a fight between comfort and clean looks. In 1910they went for comfort with a large sleeve head and lived with the creases. Of the rack suits go for clean look wiht a small sleeve head and thats why they are uncomfortable. Savile Row suits try to achieve both clean and full and that is HARD.
The italians just make a feature of the creases.
So in summary - you are trying to do a very difficult thing in a very light weight difficult fabric that shows ever crease!