Italian Vs Savile Row Part 2

So after discussing at length the similarities between Italian and British Bespoke I would be remissed if I didn't also look at some of the difference.

There is of course the famed Millinese buttonhole. Its a lapel hole that is often copied by Chinese production houses.

Even my good friend James Chang has successfully unlocked the key making this iconic hole.

If you haven't yet seen one, I would describe it as an upside down buttonhole. The stitches are underneath and the loop covers the gimp on top.

Thought British were the first to trained East Asia's tailors, the Italians were the most recent.

Apparently the buttons only need to sewn on locally for a garment to be classified as 'made in Italy'. Since production has historical been so cheap in China, its easy to see the incentive there.

Lapped shoulder seams and front darts are the norm. Some even remove the dommette for a softer feel.

They tend to have more cloth showing round the in-breast pockets on the facing. Some are even cut with flowing curves.

There's also the 'waterfall' effect on there sleeve crowns. The seam is lapped under the canvas at the shoulder rather than it the armhole like Savile Row. With little to no wadding in the sleeve head with fullness falls with an interesting effect. If someone did that Pooles they'd be accused of adding too much fullness.

I have seen boated out-breasts, some London tailors do that too.

I am sure there are other details than differ, but fundamentally the core skills are the same just different tastes in styles.