Hey,
just finished the making of a coat series and there are some questions left...would be nice if you could help me for better understanding 🙂. I study fashion design in Germany and I am focused on tailoring, the knowledge about this subject in my university is very poor...
What is the purpose of the stripe of lining which gets placed on the break line of the lapel?
Why is the sleeve lining different than the body lining? Has it a different technical function? Or is it just a different design feature?
What is the technical purpose of the bias tape which gets placed on the edge of the lapel?
Why do you fold the edges of the upper collar over the under collar? Is there a technical purpose? (photo) I thought I saw in the video that one side of the edge is raw? Am i right?If yes, why?
Why is the left forepart different to the right forepart? I think the shoulder and the armhole are on a different height...
Cann you tell me on which parts of the coat remains some Inlay for future alterations?
1. It is drawn off to create shape for the chest prominence. 2. Evolution. It started out as a cheap alternative to silk. 3. 3D shape to the forepart. To join the canvas to the forepart and facing. 4. So as to keep a good amount of hand padding in the under collar and not cut it all away. 5. One side of the body is different to the other. 6. Shoulder seam - to length balance. Neck point - to straighten Shoulder point - to crooken Centre back seam - widen half back Side seam - increase sizing
This is my understanding, which may not be 100% correct:
The strip of lining is the bridle. It's 'drawn' (pulled a little) to create tension, which in turn gives a curve to the lapel. If this isn't done the lapel remains flat against a curved part of the body and the collar can lift and the lapel gapes.
Shirting is often used for the sleeves. It's more durable than a lot of linings, and the arms take a fair amount of wear.
Taping has a number of purposes. It allows the canvas to be anchored to the cloth without stressing it: the tape bears some the stress of the stitches, thereby preventing damage to the cloth. Bias tape also allows the canvas to move (relatively) independently to the cloth due to its stretch, again preventing stress. In the case of facings that are sewn-on, tape also prevents bulk at the seam. Lastly, it adds definition to edges and, when drawn, can create shape.
I'd have to re-watch the relevant video to understand what you mean by folding the edges of the collar. When felt is used for the undercollar it's OK to leave its edge 'raw' (so to speak), because it doesn't fray.
Foreparts can be different to account for a person's figuration. In many cases the shoulder of the dominant hand will drop slightly compared with the other side. Compensation of some sort is made, otherwise wrinkling would occur.
Inlay is commonly left on the side seams at the back. It can be left elsewhere too. I dare say all this is mentioned somewhere during Rory's course (possibly the drafting/cutting sections?).