Hey,
just finished the making of a coat series and there are some questions left...would be nice if you could help me for better understanding 🙂. I study fashion design in Germany and I am focused on tailoring, the knowledge about this subject in my university is very poor...
What is the purpose of the stripe of lining which gets placed on the break line of the lapel?
Why is the sleeve lining different than the body lining? Has it a different technical function? Or is it just a different design feature?
What is the technical purpose of the bias tape which gets placed on the edge of the lapel?
Why do you fold the edges of the upper collar over the under collar? Is there a technical purpose? (photo) I thought I saw in the video that one side of the edge is raw? Am i right?If yes, why?
Why is the left forepart different to the right forepart? I think the shoulder and the armhole are on a different height...
Cann you tell me on which parts of the coat remains some Inlay for future alterations?
1. It is drawn off to create shape for the chest prominence. 2. Evolution. It started out as a cheap alternative to silk. 3. 3D shape to the forepart. To join the canvas to the forepart and facing. 4. So as to keep a good amount of hand padding in the under collar and not cut it all away. 5. One side of the body is different to the other. 6. Shoulder seam - to length balance. Neck point - to straighten Shoulder point - to crooken Centre back seam - widen half back Side seam - increase sizing