Hi Rory
I am about to start the trouser making soon (I'm leaving starting the coat until I have completed this) and I have a few questions that have arisen since watching the latest video series....
So please could I get your thoughts on something I decided to do on my fist ever garment attempt - before subscribing to your video series. This is a pair of trousers I was trying to replicate from a three piece suit. My plan was to take measurements off the suit and create a pattern by reference to some drafting formulae in a few books. This proved more difficult than I thought.
Measurements
How is the side seam length determined? Is it the length from the waist (point on side level with line through bellybutton) down to the heel of the shoe? Or is it calculated? I can't quite see how you derived it. My other books seem to reference it to an existing trouser waistband but since I don't have any high rise trousers I'm not sure how to measure this length correctly.
Mark Stitching
I thought it best to start with trousers.....anyway when I practised on spare material I found that sometimes the two layers would shift during cutting.
So I thought about the layout and mark stitching and decided to bast together the two layers of folded fabric and mark stitch everything before cutting. I figured it would help hold the layers together while cutting and then I could separate the layers and snip the mark stitching afterwards. Is there a good reason for not doing it this way? (I know that the loops are a bit long)
Nap
The other question I wanted to ask about was nap. You haven't mentioned it in your videos when setting out the lay. How important is it? How much extra material is needed to allow for this in general if required?
Front Inseam Length
I have seen books mention that the front inseam length ought to be 3/8" longer than the back inseam and that this length should be eased into the section from mid thigh to crotch. I can't see if this is included in your pattern construction. Can you let me know if that is covered in your pattern draft?
My first efforts with my own pattern draft
I would welcome comments on this first attempt which I had to work out myself. No fusing was used at all as the books I was following didn't suggest it. I'm posting it here now so that I can compare it to my attempt using your instructions and pattern draft as soon as I get the time free to do it.
Looks pretty good in the back if you watch the fitting video it will show you how to clean it up more
Yes the inseam length is covered in the draft
Nap is only an issue on one way cloths
Place a board cloth down under your fabric and this will prevent the cloth from shifting
Side seam is top of the waistband to the heel of the shoe
I've seen tailors baste striped fabric. I'm not sure it's necessary to do it with other types of "grippy" wool if the fabric is pinned well. I don't know if it's the bespoke tailoring way, but for more complicated patterns like plaids, some people cut using a single ply of fabric.
I usually use a nap layout for everything because at times it's hard to see if the light hits the fabric differently. If I didn't, I would use a non-lap layout only for parts that would be inside and less noticeable.
I like the hand stitching on the hooks.
This all looks pretty good. My suggestions are as follows:
Side seam length - Generally taken from direct measure. Decide where you want the waistband to be, then measure down from that.
Basting pieces together during cutting - Bro, just use pins. ;)
Front inseam longer than back inseam - Yeah, I have heard this too. Some drafts have it, others don't. I suspect it would be to provide additional ease for the front thigh. I don't think it matters hugely for loose trousers. If you want to add it to an existing pattern, maybe slash the pattern just below the crotch point and spread it maybe 1cm to lengthen the seam - ?
Regarding side seam length, you set the garment's waistline height at a point where it looks/feels right and this determines the length. Your existing wardrobe is a good indication of what looks good. If you find things too low/high, adjust accordingly.
One can take it as high as the actual waistline (usually where the belly button is). At the end of the day, it's a matter of taste/comfort.
You probably know this, but just in case. When cutting, I find it helps to keep the free hand palm-flat on the cloth, to the side of the shears at all times. This prevents material from slipping. The spacing between both hands is enough for the shears to fit under the cloth. Also, don't lift the shears when cutting. Allow their weight to rest on the cutting surface as you cut.
Well done! The pic is a little dark, but from what I can tell the fit is good at the back. Can't ask for more! 🙂
This guy bastes the selvedge (a matter of personal taste?):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLUy2jwMCeo
Regarding nap, here's a video by Tom Mahon where he goes into it a little:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uTdZ2N8zEY
Even if no nap is noticeable, I hold fabric in both directions to the light, with the warp vertical. If there's no change in appearance, then pattern direction doesn't matter (so long as everything is placed on grain).
When there is nap, I still do this. Traditionally, corduroy used to be manufactured with the pile going upwards, to reflect more light. Commercial manufacturers started making it the other way round, so that it feels more natural. I got my hands on some of the 'good stuff' last year. Very lustrous, but it looks dull and lifeless with the pile running down. In the above vid, you'll see this.