I apologize that it is not a jacket. I hope that I can still make this post in these boards.
I am trying to create a brand that flatters a muscular male physique. Below you will see what our brands size large dress shirt would look like. I am slightly larger than this but I am wearing the shirt to illustrate my dilemma.
Creating a fitted and flattering shirt has proven to be difficult. I am happy with the fit of the overall shirt except for the lower back of the shirt. Muscular guys have very developed and rounded upper backs and a hollow lower back. My pattern has been shaped at the centre back to accommodate the extra room needed at the upper back and tapers in at the lower back. However, the adjustments made to the pattern to create a taper at the waist now creates a flare. I would like to remove this excess flare.
My question is; how should I go about removing this excess flare?
Should I take in the amount of the excess at the lower back and add it to the side seam?
Is it flaring out because the shaping at the centre back is too extreme that I should release a bit at the waist level on the centre back? or is there another way?
Thank you.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/fuLVXQ9pohc
I'd say there's too much suppression taken out of the dart. Max should be about 3/4. Take the remainder of the dart suppression out of the side seam
I'm not a professional, but this is my take. My advice would be to watch some draping videos. They're mostly for womens' garments (shift dresses, bodices etc), but the same principles apply. You'll get smoother shaping with those back darts if they're fitted to the individual. If the problem persists, then you'll probably need the addition of a centre-back seam. [edit, it looks as if you already have one. Still, watch some draping vids? (plenty on youtube)].