Hello everyone,
here an update of my coat making process. I inserted the sleeves and am quite happy how they drape/fall. I have sewn them in by hand. The left sleeve isn’t wadded yet. There is about 2 1/4 inch of fullness in the sleeve hat . I struggled a lot to get it distributed evenly. The biggest problem was the sleeve pattern. Actually, i recut them three times :-( I needed a higher sleeve hat , it is now about 7 1/4 inch (18,5 cm)
next step is to close the lining and starting the finishing process. But first i have to finish two waistcoats, some shirts and a pair of trousers for my wedding.....
@martinkuester71 This is a really fine effort. You should be really proud of the quality of the seams and pockets. I think that you are right about the issues being with the fitting rather than the construction but that is something that I'm sure must come with experience. I'm really looking forward to seeing your next piece. You have set the bar high for all of us now!
Wow! Looks marvellous! If I can achieve 75% of your level with my first coat, I'd be satisfied!
Hello all,
on this sunny sunday morning, it is time to realise the finished coat. What I am happy with is the all over silouette of the coat. However there are a lot of things for improvement!!! It is not about the sewing which I think executed acuratly. It is all about the fitting.
After the last post I decided to rip the sleeves again because af all the puckering in the sleeve cap. This is much better now. But the sleeves still have to lift up on the back site.
There is a bit of tension in the back, which I belive is due to the collar. I think that I didn't stretch the collar enough. The tension in the waist wasn't during the fitting.
I am happy with the vents. So the alteration in the center back for my porminent seat was successfull :-)
My most reliable customer Mr Dusty Bin will pic up the coat today and will wear it poudly.
Time to get some paper, pen and rulers to start from scatch for the next bespoke Saville Row style coat. Stay tuned for the improvements that hopefully will come up in the upcomming month.
Have a great weekend and happy tailoring everyone,
Martin
Yes I think a drink is in order. When we open the new school, I hope many of you will join me. And we can all enjoy a nice cold pint of Guinness. It’s full of vitamin G. The right stuff for tailors.
Given the exceptional quality of Martin’s work we have had to add a new Badge “Handcraft Tailor”. Seeing a project like this is the greatest award we could ever receive for all the months of effort that went into shooting and editing the video series. It also confirms something I have always believed, that these videos are enough to teach the skills of coat making. Congrats to Martin for becoming the first ‘Handcraft Tailor’ from following the video series.
Brilliant work, my goodness!! Amazing, really it is. All the months Desirée and I put into the video series and to see this project really does take our breath away. Drop the back pitch down 1/2”, that won’t upset your sleeve pitch and help you distribute some of that fullness through the under-sleeve The front pitch is the one you need in place, the back pitch has more to do with the fullness in the Crown or Cap (not hat). Great work, will have to come up with a new Badge for those who present finished coats & trousers.