Hello All,
I'm nearing the end of my dissertation now but I had a couple more questions I would be interested in knowing answers to if you are able to help.
My ancestors were tailors which is what started my interest in this profession. I'd love to know more about what their individual jobs were like.
One of them was a 'Tailors Trimmer' in 1939, one a 'Tailors Machinist' and one a 'Tailoress' in 1910. The older relatives at that time were 'Underpressers'.
If anyone with a knowledge of tailoring history could give me an idea of what these jobs might have entailed at the time and if they were working on coats which parts from this video series match up to each job.
I'm also interested to know if you make coats to the same level of detail as this video series professionally, how long this takes you? And if you sell them around about how much you charge per coat and the average cost of your materials?
This is because I am comparing bespoke to ready to wear in terms of the construction and costs.
Any help with these things would be very much appreciated.
Thank you!
Some of the apprentices at a Savile Row shop discuss being a trimmer here. You should ask in this forum as well.
Your "ancestors"? 🤣 1939 was not that long ago. I mean, yes, it was a while ago, but when I read "ancestors" I immediately think of people from hundreds of years ago. One of my grandparents was alive in 1910. She wasn't very old, but she was alive and I don't consider her an "ancestor."
As for the tailoress the videos on buttonholes
An example of Under pressing would be after the lapels are padded and I start pressing to add the tapes
Machinist is sewing in the pockets and darts
Trimming comes in when we talk about the trimming package. It’s all ready ‘trimmed’ for you.
Underpressers, press the job between stages of construction.
A tailoress is a finisher. Traditionally a lady who would hand sew the buttonholes as well as all the felling, prick stitching etc
Machinist sews in the pockets of a coat and the straight seams
Trimmer is someone who trims the job with all the extras (everything bar the cloth). So that’s linings, buttons, threads, zips, canvases etc