Hello,
I am just embarking on the Vimeo trouser making course and have a question about drafting from my own measurements. From books I've read my understanding is that the model figure has a waist six inches less than the seat. The difference between my waist and seat is much less. I have a taken a loose seat measure of 43 and a waist of 41 which give me a difference of only two inches. Is the draft used in the course likely to work with my disproportionate figure?
Kind regards
Gavin
Take the different in the waist to seat divide it by four. The maximum the side seam can come in is 3/8” or go out it 3/8”. The fly can only come in 1/4” from 5-A. The dart can be eliminated or reduced in size as needs. How I do it is eliminate the dart first then the fly angle and then the side seam.
(/) this symbol means divided by
For a plus 1” Add 1/4” at pt 11 (side seam)
For a zero drop eg 43w 43s Side seam remains straight
For a 2” drop 2/4= 1/2” Take 3/8” off the side seam 1/8” at the fly and eliminate the dart.
So if it’s a 4” drop 4/4=1” Take 3/8” at the side seam 1/4” at the fly And 3/8” out the dart
Hi Gavin, This is a great question, thanks for putting this forward. So in a nut shell. The system does give a 6” drop. 3/8” is taken at the side seam, 1/4” and 7/8” at the dart. In total that’s 1 1/2” (multiple by 4 = 6) the inch drop.
It's good you're asking this question. In my experience, you won't get a good result if you simply draft the waist larger to accommodate your measurements. There is a certain limit to the variance that all proportionate drafts will accept from the 'normal' figure, which is why there are specialised drafts for stockier figures.
I can't comment on Rory's draft because I've never used it - I tend to use the German drafts from Mueller. I find that the best method to use in those cases is to complete the draft based on their proportions (so, if their base draft assumes a 4" difference between waist/seat, I use my real seat measurement and calculate a dummy waist measurement from that which is 4" lesser. Then complete the draft using these measurements. Then, slash the pattern pieces open vertically along the centre line (ie. the crease line) from waistband to hem, and spread them apart until the correct waist measurement is achieved. This provides the new pattern.
The new pattern may require some tweaking still, but I find this to be a more reliable method to use with any pattern because it maintains the essential character/proportions/design of the pattern while still enabling it to fit. It's worth a try - use some cheap test cloth first and see how you go.