Something that has confused me with trouser drafts is the implementation of the rise measurement. From what I can tell, the crotch curve of the fronts of the draft are not the stitch line, rather they include seam allowance. So when stitched, the rise of the finished garment will be a seam length longer than the measure applied to the draft, and the inseams a seam length shorter. This is what confuses me. Shouldn't the finished garment have the same rise as was measured in the beginning? When the rise is measured, we want the trousers to sit on the waist right where we measured to. With this draft (and maybe all others I've seen) the trousers would sit a seam length higher than where we measured. Maybe though, this is a way of implementing a bit more ease for movement, or something like that? Any help would be much appreciated!
Congrats Milo, you've discovered an edit added to the new trouser draft. In the new system the waistband is allowed at 1 1/8" not an 1 1/2" the difference being the 3/8" seam allowance.