Hi Rory!
What are the guiding principles that we need to consider in order to decide how much suppression to put in the back on points 2 to 9, 18, 4 to 10 and in the front on point 35 and points p to q?
How will the waist suppression calculation affect the chest and seat lines so that the coat will not be out of gear?
Can you also apply the calculations regardless of drafting system?
I Hope to hear from you soon. Thank you!
9 - 10 you can’t alter as it will over suppress the centre back seam and cause fluting. 18 & 35 can be suppressed more but again you would have to alter pt 8, or a fluting issue would arise. Need to be careful about darts, I know the side body seam is not exactly a dart but when you think of what you are trying to achieve. The more suppression you take in one place the more fullness you add to another. This isn’t women’s wear, men don’t have narrow waists and full hips, so putting that amount of fullness into the hip area wouldn’t achieve a satisfactory fit. What you have been given here is a good guide to achieving a waisted athletic look.