There was too much fullness in the canvas and I think the problem was that I was not tugging on the canvas when I was basting it with the forepart. The canvas had already been cut to shape the garment so I flipped it over and pressed the canvas to shrink it. That is when the creases on the garment appeared. Should not I have done that? would it have been fine to have the fullness on the canvas? if I run my hand through the canvas I would gather pleats at the basting stitches.
I have been sewing for a year and this is my first suit jacket that I have been making good progress watching the video series. However, it seems that a lot of the basic concepts I do seem to lack.
Fair enough. I do have a system for a 10”. It’s not in the book yet, but there is a plan to add it.
I am seeing wrinkles below the pocket. Is that just me? If those are the wrinkles you are referring then that’s not the canvas. You just need to give it a good pressing on the chest board. You can give the whole forepart a good pressing. Like is done for the pressing off. I full the hair cloth into the body-canvas but not so much as to cause pleating. If it does pleat you should release some fullness and begin again. 3/4- 1” of fullness is plenty. Is it just me or does it look at though the front dart is curved? The front dart should be kept in line with the neck point when canvassing off just as it is in the draft. The front dart is found by ruling down from the neck point. Maybe if you posted a few more pics we might be able to give you a firm answer on your questions. Benjamin made a lot of good points.
The canvas should be fully shrunk before attaching it to the coat. If you press the canvas and it still shrinks after you've attached it, then I suspect your only course of action would be to re-install it.
In fact, I have seen some tailors doing something called 'fulling in' the canvas before they install it. It's hard to describe, but the canvas is ironed and pushed in the same direction of the iron, causing significant rippling in the canvas. It looks quite messy, but once it's installed and pressed out, the result should be very smooth.
The ripples on the front don't look too bad - can you simply press them out?
In terms of how much fullness should be in the canvas, I'd say that this is one of the things which only comes with experience and 'feel'. I still feel like I'm learning with every coat I make, and I've made quite a few. Don't be too discouraged if your first attempt isn't perfect.