Rory - I omitted the neck dart for this project and I think I want it back. It
did make a noticeable change. I want my chest back.
Benjamin - You were right. The back was much too tight on my first fitting. Luckily I had just enough cloths to re-cut a new back with more horizontal room.
The one thing that is really bothering me is the extra fold of cloth just underneath the armhole at the side seams. I hesitate to pickup the shoulder points as it's fitting very nicely around my neck. I don't want to disturb the shoulder angles.
Any ideas?
Thank you for your positive comments and feedback. I will apply theses changes on my next project.
But first, my wife needs a jacket. Will start on that this weekend with the help of Rory's ladies jacket video series.
That’s another fantastic effort. Very nicely made! Well done
I appreciate you acknowledging that, Paul. I cut far too many of my first coats with backs too tight in an effort to 'clean them up', not realising that I was on the wrong path. Many hours wasted...
I have to say that this coat looks absolutely sensational. I've seriously seen bespoke tailors with many years experience produce coats of this quality. Excellent job - you should be very proud of your work.
If you really want to tweak your next coat, I suppose you might want to lengthen the back balance very slightly, as the skirt does appear to be standing away slightly around the seat line. This might help it sit more into the small of the back as well. I'd only lengthen back balance 6mm-1cm perhaps. Only a very small change is required. When doing this, I would personally try only lengthening at the collar area - keep the back part shoulder tips where they are. Rory has mentioned that you might want to drop the tips to clean up the back area. The change I describe will have this effect by 'lowering' the back shoulder tips relative to the back neck (if you see what I mean?).
Anyway, this is just a suggestion. It's damn near perfect as-is.
Think that’s your only real choice is to pick up the shoulder points if you want clean it. Might need a little taken out of the armhole too. Great work though!!