I'm sitting on a '3 button slim fit short style' for a client and the half back width specified as: "⅓ scale plus 2 inches" gives me 8 and 3/16".
The half back measurement of the client's back is 7 ⅞"
So, the half back by scale does not even include the ⅜" seam allowance, let alone ease.
As advised by Rory, I have measured the half back off the client's favourite suit, which is 8 ⅝". If I add a ⅜" seam, I get 9" for the draft.
Fine and dandy.
However, once I use the client's measurement, the draft's proportions are out of whack, cause the additional 13/16" come out of the forepart, specifically are now missing between pt. 20 and pt. 21
This makes me think I should rather go with the scale and adjust the back width later-on. But I'm at a loss how to go about it tbh. I cannot just add it on CB, neither on the line from pt. 5, which would disturb the run of the sleeve head, and I also cannot make the shoulders any wider.
Help? 😵💫
As reference, I'm working with the following set of measurements:
Scale = 18.5 4" Drop
Chest 37
Waist 33
Seat 40.5
Height 74
Head unit 9 ¼
One of the greatest criticisms of the "half breast system" or "half chest" is the use of scale to find depth measures.
In one book 'The Thortons Sectional System', it claims something to the effect of 'basing the depth of the scye on the circumference of a mens chest is the same as using a proportion of his dogs tail".
This statement doesn't explain "why it works". It's probably the most ironic part of that statement.
My system isn't a true "half breast system." I have taken what I believe is the best of what's out there and combined it into one drafting system.
I use head unit and chest girth to find the scye depth. Two head units to find the natural waist and sleeve length and three and half for the coat length.
The half neck is given as a value based on the neck circumference. The half back is a direct measure plus a seam. A combination of posture and back width decides the amount of length allowed for the front edge.
Some great advice there.
I think what Anna is asking is when to use scale and when to use a direct half- back measurement.
Let's first compare the measurements
In the measurement chart the value given for a half back on a
37" chest is
8 1/8 plus 3/8" is 8 1/2"
On scale of 37" (18 1/2)
6 1/8" plus 2" is 8 1/8"
Ok so the difference there is style, a closer cut back on the 3 button slim fit short style
The clients half-back is
7 7/8" plus 3/8" is 8 1/4"
That is only 1/8" away from the close styled back.
If Anna decided she didn't want the back to be as close fitting she should of course go for the wider back of 8 1/2" which will give her an extra 1/4" of ease.
As for the favourites coat, at 9" (including seam) this answer is probably the easiest one. Are you making his favourite coat or the slim fit short style or a combination of the two?
What is the persons posture? A stooped person has a rounded back vertical and width wise. Round means longer. The total circumference doesn't change. This means that the front is shorter length and width. The opposite for erect posture.
Cant you just use your direct back measure and just add the aditional 13/16 to point 21 when drafting?
Your armscye is calculated from point 6, everything else should work out if get the half chest (+ease) measure accurate.
Its easy enough to add or remove a little from the front edge, shouldn't cause any problems.