Just to preface, I asked this question on the video comments at Vimeo. I have since re-watched the videos and gotten my answer. In the spirit of documentation for anyone else that gets this question, I am deciding to post both. My original question: I've got a question to the drafting of the backside waist. You say the finished line is made up of 1/4 waist + (3*3/8"+ 3/8" + 2*3/4") (i.e. seams, ease, darts). I'm scratching my head about the 3*3/8" bit. Two of those are the side seam allowance of the backside piece + seam offset into the front for easier pocket handling as mentioned in one of the videos. In the drafting video you say the final 3/8" is to account for the fly. I'm confused as to why we would need to account for the fly on the backside. Could you please clarify what you meant with that? Thanks!
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So after reviewing the videos I realized that the waist on the front panel is drafted exactly to the ``1/4 waist measurement`` in total, even with the seam allowance at the fly and side seam . That means the front panel as sewn up is actually 2*3/8" or 3/4" shorter than the measurement. That is why These two seam allowances are moved to the back piece.
An additional question on Rory: is there a particular reason to moving both of these seam allowances to the back panel, other than shifting the side seam allowances even further forward? I could just as easily imagine accounting for the fly seam allowances on the front panel and transferring only the side seam allowance to the back.
All seam allowance is added to the undersides. Doing so displaces the side seam, moving it forward. Makes it easier to find the hip pockets with your hand. Otherwise you’d be reaching back