Hi all,
I was wondering how to create edges as pictured by the King in the following image. I have two questions:
In terms of process, should I simply put *wrong* sides together, sew in some ribbon in the seam, fold it over and then fell it to the other side? Like a "normal" bound edge? Or would it be better to make up the edge as normal, and then add the ribbon at the finishing stage?
Can anyone guess what the edge in this picture actually is? I assume it's some sort of silk, it looks like it has some ridges along its length (unlike grosgrain ribbon). I'm a bit scared of buying the wrong thing as it's very expensive!
Thanks in advance!
Robbie
It looks like he's wear a face cloth in these pics.
It's a bit like braiding on the side seam of formal wear trousers. It can be done by hand or by machine. There are pluses and minuses to both. Machining is undoubtedly quicker.
A coatmaker in Henry Poole told me that he'd seen it done both ways, but that the normal way would be to finish the facing as usual and then put ribbon on at the end. Precise felling stitch required!
I've been doing some image research on Charles' morning coat (zooming in on high-res pictures of him) - by the looks of it, it's folded around the edges. Also, I believe I can see some top / prick stitching around the edges:
So, to me, it looks like it's a binding, instead of piping, see image above.
Amongst others, the lining company offers both trouser braids in silk - or silk facings, from which you could cut the braidngs yourself.
I've never bound a coat/jacket, but have done a number of pairs of trousers. The couture way of doing it is machining the bias on from the right side and closing by hand on the underside using that same stitching. You slip under the stitch and pinch the fold of the bias. As you go the bias aligns wonderfully with the stitch line and is as good as invisible. There's certainly no visible stitching on the right side. Would be interested to know how it's done on a coat.
I believe it’s done by piping the edges. I’ve never professionally done it before but I assume you get a length of ribbon or lining, and then sew it along the edges. Perhaps @Rory Duffy can help out with this.