After I canvassed the first half, I worked on the other bits and bobs too.
Lo and behold the current status:Foreparts canvassedFront edge turnedBack basted inShoulders marked, basted and shoulder pads basted in tooCollar drafted and madeSleeves basted
Collar attached
I'll be over at "The art of fitting" now, there'll be more pictures to look at.
@Robbie I had the exact same issue as Rory had in his video: Due to the neck dart, the break line was distorted: The old break line runs a bit in front of the new one up to the dart, after the dart it moved a bit behind it.I too was a bit sceptical, but I have measured it numerous times and even got the pattern out to compare it.
@Jeroen Keerl Ah, I didn't realise you had a neck dart. I must confess – I don't have one but still had the distortion issue so was hoping I'd get an answer by piggybacking on your post!
@Robbie I actually think you are correct. I use neck darts in most of my coats, and yes, they distort the break line (mostly near the gorge), but I still try to work it mostly straight when canvassing. As you said - if the break line is curved, fullness will 'escape' into the lapel area.
I think Rory mentions in one video to check the mark stitches along the break are straight, to ensure you're not letting fullness that should be in the chest escape into the lapel. It looks like that may have happened here but I'm obviously a complete amateur!
After I canvassed the first half, I worked on the other bits and bobs too.
Lo and behold the current status: Foreparts canvassed Front edge turned Back basted in Shoulders marked, basted and shoulder pads basted in too Collar drafted and made Sleeves basted
Collar attached
I'll be over at "The art of fitting" now, there'll be more pictures to look at.
Canvassing is about cleaning the cloth over the canvas and making sure both layers are roughly the same length, without any trapped fullness
I think Rory mentions in one video to check the mark stitches along the break are straight, to ensure you're not letting fullness that should be in the chest escape into the lapel. It looks like that may have happened here but I'm obviously a complete amateur!