Hi Rory - I have a question about 'Episode 37: Making the Sleeves'. Around 04:30 you talk about letting the sleeve out 1/2 an inch, but then also say that the sleeve fitted adequately during the fitting. You also mention fullness remaining in the sleeve after it was pressed in for the fitting,.
I don't understand - if we cut the sleeve to a certain size, and then press fullness in, and then let the sleeve out, is it the same as simply cutting a larger sleeve in the first place? If it fitted adequately during the fitting, why are we letting it out?
Thanks very much for the video series - I absolutely love them.
Under-sleeve is narrower as you will see in the draft notes.
Half the circumference of the armhole or 1/4 of the chest. You won’t go too wrong from there.
Good question. An old master of mine Eugene Foley would never press the sleeve fullness for fitting. His logic is that after the fitting the sleeves would still have that fullness and would measure smaller. Savile row likes a clean fitting sewn neatly and well pressed. The fullness is still there, you just can’t see it. One can make the argument that once it is pressed flat the fullness should reappear but never the exact same amount. I also like full sleeve, so long as they fit nicely. There is so much BS out there, peddled mostly but non-sewing tailors about high armholes and such. I like a comfortable armhole with a wide sleeve and plenty of fullness, this give a range of motion. High armholes with narrow sleeves found in MTM don’t compete.