>>> Additional pics further down!!! <<<
I'm out of ideas.
I've opened up and rebasted the shoulders 10 times now (No, that is not an exaggeration) - I now even resorted to my last possible solution: Letting out the CBS as much as I could, without showing the salvage stripe - ~ 1/4" on each half.
These are the modifications so far:
- Added 1/2" to front balance
- Dropped shoulder left (front only) 1/4"
- Dropped shoulder right 1/4" back, 1/2" in the front
- Reduced width by 1/4 Inch overall
Is this a sign of "square shoulders"? If I reduce the drops, I get issues at the sides, underneath the armholes.
If I revert the balance mod, I get the back too long.
I am running around in circles here.
Feels different, looks different:
Just to compare the back yesterday and today, after squaring 3/8".
You did make a very important first step though which is worth pointing out. When any issues appear in the collar area at a pocket baste fitting, remove the collar. When the collar is off and the issue is still present, the collar wasn’t at fault. It can often happen that the basted collar can bind the neck if not attached properly.
If you can’t find the cause of the issue it may be a combination problem, a little of one or two which causes the fault. The other thing to consider is do you undo what was done to try and resolve the issue which is still present. If no resolution can be found or it is simply taking too much time or costly too much money. You can always ‘scratch it where it itches’. Using a shoulder pad, thin out and reduce to a 6x4” ‘U’ shape and attach at the back neck (neck pad) and the creases should disappear.
Or a small half neck or even a hollow back neck. One thing is certain when you try one method and that fails you just try the next until the issue is resolved.
Creases are common here and can be caused by many issues. The most common are an over suppressed centre back seam, or excessive centre back balance. Other causes are a tightness at the shoulder points or at the front of scye (front pitch).
Please let me know if you have already done this alteration
Leave the should points for now and square the back neck. Image to follow
So you’ve let out the centre back seam? If so it’s a squaring issue. You have too much centre back balance. You could probably do with increasing the back shoulder angles by a 1/2” at the shoulder points. Square it 3/8” and then re-baste it so we can have a look. Ahh the joys of tailoring!!
Any chance of some more photographs to show the overall view from all sides?