In the original series on YouTube, the coat facing was made directly on the cloth after striking and cutting the forepart without the use of a pattern. This is also a method I’ve seen some tailors use on Instagram. How would you do this method and what are the pros/con?
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Well said Benjamin
I have tried both methods. I think the method of drafting the facing off the forepart has the advantage that it will incorporate any changes which might have been made to the forepart during fitting (which might mean that the forepart no longer agrees perfectly with the initial draft). Of course, this isn't really a huge issue if you leave enough inlay on the facing when you cut it.
I suppose the only advantage to creating a facing pattern piece from the initial draft might be that you can lay out the pieces more efficiently on the cloth if you know exactly what the shape of the facing will be in the initial cutting. I can't see any other real advantage to this method, though as Rory said it does seem like it would be easier for beginners to manage.
Hi Isaac, There are pro's and con's to both method. The ladies jacket series features the detail you are asking about. I have changed quite a few details from what I learned on Savile Row when I make a new suit for myself. I taught the method of cutting facing off the draft to help you understand how a facing was made. The method of cutting if off the forepart is one that is taught to apprentices who spend years with a Master finely tuning their art. I felt there was a better chance of success making a facing from a pattern over cut it from the forepart. Hope this answer you question. Regards, Rory