Hi Rory and everyone,
Great series that I've been thoroughly enjoying as a complete beginner. Thank you for everyone contributing, it's so helpful to read all advice and see the help given to other beginners! I've just finished drafting my first pattern to my own measurements and I'm a little concerned about the proportions, especially around the sleeve, and which measurements can be rounded. All in inches Hight 70.5 I rounded to 71, giving head units of 8 7/8
Chest 46 giving scale of 23
Waist 42. I think this means a 4 inch drop?
Sleeve circumference came to 20. Does that seem small for the other measurements?
I used to be a forward in rugby many years ago if that helps with the physique.
The main issue was with the measure 0 - 1 scye depth. From the video and notes:
1/2 scale is 11 3/4
1 head unit plus 1/2" gives 8 3/8
from the portly notes, 1 head unit plus 1" gives 9 7/8
I used 8 3/8. Any advice on which measure is best?
I noticed a few other measurements changed on the portly cut draft as well.
I'm planning to use some cheap material for my first go. I have the Dugdales material but definitely won't waste it on my first attempt.
The main question is, should I scrap the first draft and redraft using the portly cut instructions?
Or is it worth putting together with cheap material and posting a photo for fitting advice?
Any and all advice is very welcome
Steve
Hi Benjamin, Thanks for the advice!
Yes, armscye, on the bodice. On p91 of Rory's book and in the video it's the circumference from D to E. Not the top of the sleeve (sleeve cap? I'm struggling with a few of the terms) The curvy part at the top of the sleeve also looks off. The distance from 1 to 2 on the sleeve draft looked quite short and I think this was the cause.
Unfortunately with all the excitement I've already cut out the pattern, so I think it's best to redraft and post a picture before I cut it out. That still leaves me with a choice of 4 armcye depth measurements. So far around 10" is looking like the best for me as the portly cut, Benjamin's German method, and the video all have that. I'll go ahead with redrafting 10" scye depth 0-1 and post a photo of the finished pattern
It would be helpful if you can get pictures of your drafts, and post them. Definitely make something up in cheap cloth first. I use cheap calico for test fittings. You can get it for about $10 per metre on eBay here in Australia.
Armscye measurement looks too small to me (you say 'sleeve circumference' - are you talking about the sleeve cap? Or the armscye? I'm assuming you meant armscye on the coat bodice draft.) Many tailors subscribe to the rule that armscye circumference should generally be close to 1/2 chest.
In terms of armscye depth - you should always conform to Rory's method, but as a check for your measurement it might be instructive to use a method I enjoy which comes from old German tailoring textbooks (e.g. Der Zuschnitt fur die Herrenschneiderei). They calculate armscye depth at: 1/16 height + 1/8 chest. So, for you it would be 70.5/16 + 46/8 = 4.4 + 5.8 = 10.2 inches. So again, it looks like your calculation is low here.