Fitting Help

Quarter chest for a 40” chest and above works well for the sleeve width. 39” and below needs quarter chest plus 1/2”.

Did you follow the measuring instructions on the blog?

Hi Heather, I don't have anything material to add, just a note of encouragement. I had the half back measurement really wrong on my first coat and it messed up a lot of other stuff – in particular the sleeve (the half back being bigger, while the chest measurement remains constant, brings round the bottom of the sleeve so affects the pitch). Once I corrected it it looked *way* better. Obviously every case is different and I don't want to overpromise anything but try not to be disheartened as a single wrong measurement can throw the whole thing off. Good luck!

The only way to know for sure is to have a go at it.

Hi Heather, We are currently put together some guidelines on how to use the video series. Though I doubt they will be popular, we are advising the our followers start by making a few bastes first before venturing into the first garment. I do realise this will cost more in trimming but it’s the way apprentices learn the trade. In short I don’t expect you to get it right first time. Rory

Hi Heather, It’s a good first attempt but there are a lot of issues. I believe you have gone awry somewhere in the patterns. It doesn’t help that your model is prominent seated. The sleeves are too narrow and the half back too wide. The sleeves are also pitched too far forward, which is causing a lot of the unsightly creases. The half back width should be equal to the half the cross back measurement. Place two rulers under each armpit and measure from the top of one to the top of the other and half the measurement. Add a 3/8” to the total amount. Start with those two issues for now. My suggestion would be to fix the back pattern and recut the back from it. Check your sleeve width from pt0 to pt4 as at least 1/4 chest.

Hi Heather,

I'll try and help out with all the things I had to correct. What I am seeing here has similarities with my first fitting attempt.

What worries me the most are the sleeves. Somethings really not good there.

The way the under sleeves attach to the back is completely off, it looks like they are forces to make a curve that shouldn't be there.

Awful question, but I do have to ask: Are you sure, your sleeves were made the way they should?

Also: They seem to be sewn on suspiciously far up onto the shoulder. I see no fullness, rather too much tension.

The shoulder pads: Are they really that far into the upper sleeve, that I see them bulge out in the upper sleeve?

The center and lower back: It looks a bit tense from the waist down, possibly the cloth is resting upon the lower backside (aka bum) of your model. Maybe let it out a bit there? Above the waist there seems to be a lot of cloth bulging up.

If I see it correctly, your modell seems rather slender, so you might try and take in a bit in the side seams from the waist upwards.

As far as the upper back is concerned: Looks like you need to square the shoulders to - see my fitting post, where @Rory Duffy described how to it.

But before that, verify if the problem exists with the collar taken off.

That's a lot of work to be done - I hope others will chime in here too and share their thoughts, as there are a lot of things interacting with each other!

Don't let this discourage you, you can do this!