Hello everyone,
My materials and tools have arrived so I am looking forward to following along with the series!
I am writing about Tailoring for my University Dissertation so this seemed like a great course to learn these skills from home. I study Costume Production so I imagine I have been taught to do things differently to what Rory would recommend.
I would usually draft my pattern to my models measurements, make a toile from calico, fit the garments, adjust the pattern where necessary then recut in main fabric and do a main fabric fitting before finishing the garment properly. My model for the coat is smaller than Rory's draft so I don't know whether to fit and alter the pattern as I usually would before cutting out in main fabric?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Some of you may also have seen the notes placed on the blog, these are for a 2” drop portly figure. The 6” drop is considered Regular/ Athletic Typically sizes 36- 42 2” Portly is usually 42- 46 Corpulent is 48 and over There is also a 4” alternative draft.
So if you have both of these you can draft a proportionate pattern in most sizes. Note that the system will give you a 6” drop. A drop is the difference between the chest and waist on Coats.
Hi all, Just had a quick scan through these messages. The system is essential based on two measurements, the height and the chest. The scale is half the chest and the head unit is 1/8th of the height.
It's not bespoke, but as you're studying costume design you might enjoy A Tailor Made It, a blog by a Canadian theatrical costume cutter/tailor. Her most recent posts are about some swimsuits she made for herself. For the costumes, you have to go back in the past.
There was a discussion about this a few weeks ago. First, if you're using Rory's draft, the coat should basically fit, it's only the measurements that will be smaller. (I assume your model is male.) You still have to adjust it. The difficulty of doing that is going to differ with the person.
Rory thinks it makes sense to work in the wool itself instead of using muslin (calico in the U.K.) because it won't hang the same way as wool. That is a highly understandable and efficient approach. But if you don't have much tailoring experience, you might want to make a toile first, especially since the materials aren't inexpensive.