Hello all,
I am still pondering the alterations I need to make to my jacket to get the fit the best I can.
I have done a fitting with my University tutors who are not tailors but are there in person to look at the jacket on and pin things. I've also been on a call with another tailor who has given me some advice but I'm still struggling with how to resolve the issues practically.
I have let out the sleeves 1/2" using the under sleeve inlay at the top and also moved the shoulder seam 1/2" forward on the sleeve side of the seam, tapering this back out towards the neck (which i think is what @Rory Duffy meant!)
Before I worked this out we had pinned out some of the excess length in the nape to waist above the rent and my tutor suggested re-cutting the back shorter.
However, the tailor I spoke to on the phone mentioned that the excess length would need to be taken out of the back neck not at the waist. She also suggested taking some out of the side seams from the armhole down to the waist then letting the waist out as much as possible.
I'm not sure how this is done though.
I hadn't moved the shoulder seams at this point which might lift the jacket and remove some of the length?
I don't think the vents sit far enough around the side of the jacket so I'm going to let them out as much as I can.
I have also let the top back neck out about 1/2", 2 1/2" down the centre back seam and then tapering off which I'm hoping will get rid of some of the tightness around there. The tailor I spoke to on the phone also suggested lengthening the under collar and adding more ease around the shoulder seams when tacking this in so it doesn't sit as tight around the neck?
I'm hoping to figure out the necessary alterations to the back and then put it back together for a second fitting with the adjusted shoulders, vents and sleeves.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Heather,
let me try and take this one step at a time.
- The sleeves:
1) Do the wrinkles in the back of the sleeves disappear (almost) if your model raises his arms in front of him? => Pitch!
2) Back of the neck: If I see it correctly, the collar is pushing down excess cloth, causing it to crease. I'd say, you need to drop the neck points about 1/2" - thus effectively pulling the excess fabric up. (Look at my last fitting post, I had to do similar!) If you do so, you might want to open up the center back seam a little (1/2 to 1") to reduce tension in the neck.
3) The vents: Look fine to me, no need to let them out?
4) The crease in the lower back: Might actually disappear too, when you took care of the neck.
@Rory Duffy Can tell you more or better, I am sure!