OK, I did some research about the front-back balance and - thanks to @Isaac Källström and @Robbie - decided to take on the balance issue first.
I shifted the balance 1" to the front, ie. I took 1/2" off the back and added 1/2" to the front, with the following result:
The hem is now slightly tilted to the front The issues in the back are looking worse now, partially because the shoulder pads have been removed.
What would you say: Stick with this balance, or try to go back 1/4"?
Update:
I had to re-set a bunch of marking stitches, they got lost along the way. (One of the things I will definitely do a lot better the next time)
Current setting: Dropped left shoulder 1/2" (1/4" front, 1/4" front back) Dropped right shoulder 1" (1/2" front, 1/2" back)
Took 1/2" balance from the back
Results weren't too bad, but still a lot of fabric under the scyes and pulling in the neck.
I opened up the CBS about 1/2" to get rid of the tension there, this would be cut off if all is set, as it is the 1/2" of the back balance.
I also took the hip curve and took away a bit at the side seam. I laid 24" at the waist and marked 1" inside at the half back line in the scye. Basted it together again.
Results:
Not too bad!
Tension in the neck was gone, back is almost "clean" now, there still are some wrinkles in the upper half. The scye had become too small now, the sleeves of my shirt are now pulling down there.
Next steps:
1) Remove the dropped 1/4" in the back shoulders. This should a) move the shoulder seam a bit forward, b) reduce the tension in the upper back and c) release a bit of tension at the armhole bottom
2) Review the side seam again, maybe adjust it, then baste it decently
3) Put in the pads in a decent manner
4) Review again
If it all looks like I think it should, I might get bold and put in the collar too.
Pictures too follow, but I think there's light at the end of the tunnel!
So, I did some reading, @martinkuester71 kindly sent me some old Dutch and German tailoring books. If I am not mistaking, it was also Martin, who pointed out my sloping shoulders. The massive folds on the sides of my back are being referenced in a the Dutch tailoring book as being caused by sloping shoulders.
Which leaves me in the following situation - any hints are gladly taken!
- Redistributed balance: 1/4 taken off the back, 1/4 added to the front.
- This (of course) had an impact on the side seam and thus the arm scye - as the back went up and side body and front went down. I can't really fit in the shoulder pads anymore.
- I will have to readjust / modify the shoulder seams to account for the sloping. So I'll have to drop the outsides 1/2" (?) - and redraft the arm scye too (again)?
As written above: Hints about the best way of proceeding here?
It does look better now, and yes, you always need the shoulder pads when fitting (although I've found you can pin out around 1.5cm at the back armscye during fitting to compensate for a lack of pads, which works OK if you're in a rush).
I would definitely not alter the shape of the CB seam in general (though in certain cases very minor adjustments can be valid). The side seams at the back probably could be taken in a small amount, but my advice would be not to over-do it. A tight back is uncomfortable and very difficult to correct in a finished coat. It's easy to make the mistake of over-tightening in an effort to achieve a good fit.
The ripples behind the back neck might be due to a shoulder slope that is too great. If they persist, you could try lowering the back neck around 6mm and flattening the entire back shoulder slope. But as you say, this might be caused by tension from excess cloth.
Shoulder pads basted in...
The folds in the neck / upper back are probably because of the extra cloth from modifying the back balance, there's ~ 1/2" of fabric up there that needs to go, when all is set.
So, the back is looking a bit better now, "only" quite some material left on both sides.
By the way – I'd always include the shoulder pads when you're fitting, as they can alter both balance required in the back and also direct fullness.
Hi Jeroen, I'm not certain but I think it can be quite risky to mess with the centre back seam shape too much – no harm in experimenting with it of course, but I imagine it could be better take a constant amount out all the way down. You'll probably find it won't feel tighter at the waist but will just sit a little closer to your back, if that's what you're worried about. You could always let it out at the waist if it is too tight.
As proposed by @Benjamin I pulled up the front again by 1/2", which seems to have improved the balance - I've done some walking about, sitting and some stretches with the coat on, checks in the mirror showed that the hem stayed horizontal.
As far as I can see it, my next move would be to take in the back by up to 1"" between the waist- and the chest-line. Should I do this via the center back seam, with a curve starting at the waist line and then with the broadest point at the lowest point of the arm scyes and the end of the curve near the horizontal line between the shoulder points? (See last image)
Yeah, back balance is too short now. I think increasing front balance 1" was too much. Try pinning the excess front balance across the shoulder line now to correct it. Once you find the correct amount to remove from front balance, then make the correction. Back should clean up if you insert the pads.