Hi HTAers
I seemingly have some problems with my sleeve head measurements. Firstly I have attached some photos of the coat to this point. I am very happy with the way things are going for my first HTA coat. It took me ages and a lot of Rory's time to sort out my first fitting but I feel that this is now about right. A lot of trouble with back balance and dropped shoulder, reforming arm holes, sleeves too short (had to get more material to Australia to cut longer ones) Seems to be right on wearing now and fits beautifully at the first fitting. See the photos. I did mess up the front facing where i cut it out on the pattern straight away and so didnt have the material to swing it over below the waist. As a result the front facing is a little narrow and i had to extend my lining to meet the facing. I did that with a contrasting silk lining which looks pretty good I think!
So I am at the point where I have measure the arm holes. Mine were almost the same at 21 1/4". Rory's video said his was 22 1/2". I'm a bit concerned about the difference on that but guess I could have a high armhole as a result. However when I measure my sleeve head on the sleeve they only come up as 20 1/2"!!! So I am about 3/4" short rather than 1 1/2" over for fullness. I checked the fabric against the pattern and it seems ok. The Pattern making seemed to go well and no alarms made at that point. As you can see from the photos the back seam was cut to the pattern ie not adding seam allowance. I think this is right? If it wasnt then that might explain a 2x3/8=3/4" difference. But not sure where any of the rest has gone.
I do have some inlay at the back of the back arm seam and could extend the under arm back seam to the edge of the inlay and gain about 1 1/4" then recurve the back arm seam. - see photo. I dont particularly want to get more fabric to Australia from Dugdales to remake again.
Any advice from anyone??
Do I just take the inlay 1 1/4" giving me 1/2" Fullness and be done
Why is Rory's circumference so much more than mine?
Did I need to add Seam Allowance to the arm pattern??
Or do i just wait to get some more fabric and re-do the pattern to work
Thanks for the help
Ken
Hi Rory
I'm a bit confused! I am trying to re-draw the sleeve pattern as I thought I got it wrong somehow and that is why my sleeve head is not long enough. I have gone back to the pattern making episode 1. For the dimension 0 to 4 you measure the circumference of the arm hole. Your circumference was about 21" without the two Seam Allowances at the shoulder but includes the 2x Seam Allowances between the forepart and the side body. I would have thought that the final armhole would have been 21" minus 2x 3/8" Seam Allowances = 20 1/4". Somehow when the body is formed up in Episode 36 you measure around the arm hole and it is 22 1/2". I don't understand how that has happened?? Also I dont understand how with your measurement of 21" circumference in Episode 1 and you want about 1 1/2" fullness that should be about 22 1/2" so I dont understand how you ended up with sleeve tops measuring 23 3/8" in Episode 36?
Sorry for the detail but it's quite confusing for me
Thanks
Ken