Hi HTAers
This is my first attempt at an HTA coat (and the first on the forum) and only fourth coat ever having only started sewing last year. So help me out here please
I was surprised at how many creases the coat had when I finally put it on. I think I have identified the following
Sleeve length - this is the most perplexing for me. My sleeves have 2"of inlay at the hem. When I first put it on it looked ridiculously short. I do have long arms and shirts never fit me in the sleeve. I went back to the pattern and found that I had a head measurement of 9 1/4" but (being in Australia) I converted that to cm but took off 4mm to make it easy 23cm (bad mistake) the sleeve length was two head measurements so I was about 10mm short. Probably wouldn't have been a problem if if wasn't for also the long arms!. So I took 1/2"out of the inlay and lengthened the sleeve on the photos. This has left me with 1 1/2" on the sleeve hem inlay. I would like to take as much as I can out of the inlay but not sure how far I can go? I feel from the fitting process that I would need another 1" leaving only 1/2" hem inlay at the cuff. Is this enough for the sleeve and fitting the lining?? You will see that my shirt sleeve length is also short and so the interplay with the coat length wouldn't be that bad (until I find a shirt with longer sleeves!) Help on this one please. Also the shoulder pad sticks out a lot and i wonder if this is not helping. The shoulder seam length looks ok so can I cut the shoulder pad back yet?
The front overlay at the button is ok at about 1 1/2" and that feels like it fits well there. However it feels quite full at the chest and sort of sitting out. I pinned it back at the side seems about and 1" each side and that feels better - is that what I should do to bring this in?
The length of the coat is on my second knuckle up so about 1" short but I feel that any longer and it might look odd on my long thin body. I don't mind the shorter look and it probably helps with the shorter sleeve length. Any thoughts here?
Surprisingly it appears that my left shoulder is about 1/4" lower than my right (never realised that!). So I think the left shoulder needs bringing together by about 1/2" each side. Does that sound right? seems a lot to take in for 1/4" drop?
On my back I have a funny looking horizontal pleat happening at the waist. Not sure what to do here? But I think that it might be that the front button overlap might be too tight or I may have to let the back panel waist out about a 1/4" each side - all comments welcome there.
The sleeve pitch looks a bit funny. The front of the arm crosses the pocket at 2/3rds back ie not half way. And the top of the sleeve has these diagonal creases. I am guessing that the arm pitch needs rotating in the arm hole? but not sure if this is right or by how much. Currently the rear arm seam matches the back balance line (I think it is called that!) see photos.
I am a little concerned that the shoulder seam runs to the back of the shoulder over its length - is this right?
I don't seem to have any creases at the waist under the arm so I think the arm fits into the arm hole well enough.
Just to let you know that I also had an email exchange with Rory about when I was putting the fabric onto the canvas. He suggested putting it onto the Forum for your info and input. FYI I haven't put in the neck dart as don't have a big chest. When working to overlay the fabric I started from the dart out to the lapel smoothing as I went and the dart was straight up and pointing to the shoulder point - all good. But as the fabric smoothed over the breakline bowed out at the middle about 1/8". So I did it again making sure the dart was straight and the break was straight and was left with a little fullness on the fabric between. However when I put it on the form it seemed to fill out. When I asked Rory he said to start at the break and work back towards the dart. I was a bit worried this would just create a bow in the dart as the fabric went back. I told him that it fitted ok over the form and he suggested leaving it. Just wondering if anyone has any experience of the same and what they did. I did wonder if the fullness above in No2 was a result of this. I also thought may be I could start at the dart, smooth it out,
and then remark the break and the lapel edge. Any thoughts on that?
I think that is all I can see (enough for me to sort out!!) but really happy if you can spot any other things i need to work on. Thanks heaps 馃構(PS Hot here hence the shorts!!!)
Hi Rory and All,
An update of the first fitting. Following from above I have
路聽聽聽聽聽聽聽 dropped the left by 1/4
路聽聽聽聽聽聽聽 shortened the back balance by 20mm", Recut the neck hole and lowered the arm holes
路聽聽聽聽聽聽聽 Remade the sleeves to increase by 1"
The photos are the result and looks a lot better.
I am wondering about the following
路聽聽聽聽聽聽聽 do i need to take up the back balance a further 10mm ?
路聽聽聽聽聽聽聽 what about the vertical wrinkles on each side of the back. These disappear when i stretch forward. Should these be removed and if so how?
路聽聽聽聽聽聽聽 Do i need to lengthen the hem anywhere?
路聽聽聽聽聽聽聽 Arms are good length now but pitch may need changing. By how much. You will see from the photos that the pitch mark on the pocket is well back? any comments on that?
路聽聽聽聽聽聽聽 What about my right protruding shoulder blade?
路聽聽聽聽聽聽聽 Any other thoughts
All comments appreciated
Front balance looks good. What where your measurements?
The centre back neck seam is over suppressed. Let it out 1/4" on the double and adjust the neck sizing at the neck point.
Hi Rory and HTAers
So there is a lot to do above. Below is what I have done and I would like some feed back on this please before i progress any further.
I am going to remake the sleeves an inch longer with the new material - stay turned for this
I have taken 1 1/2 inches out of the centre back. I tried 2" but though it felt good and snug it probably was a bit tight for the drape of the cloth so i backed it to 1 1/2" and this feels a good middle ground. I still have 1 1/2" overlap at the centre front. I have only basted this seam at the moment and done 1 1/2" all the way from the hem to the neck. This I have not, as yet, done anything at the neck line as I dont want to cut anything yet until I know I am on the right path. This seems to have cleaned up a lot of the back. There are some smaller diagonal lines from the hips to the centre back at the waist. On altering the neck hole, if the 1 1/2s" is ok in your opinion, do I just cut the neck hole out using the same pattern and does that mean I have to move the shoulders out 3/4" each side too into the inlay and reform the arm hole further out. I am not sure how that works so advice here please.
I have accommodated the 1/4" dropped left at the shoulder only at this point. Yet to cut out the arm hole lower for same reason of not wanting to cut anything yet. How does that look?
I have not changed the front or the back balance yet as wanted to see what you thought of the above
first.
So happy to take all offerings.
Finally how did this have so many alterations to make. I did the pattern as per the video and the sheets - why is it so out? If i do this with someone else i dont want to be doing multiple fittings. Should i have checked the pattern with the actual body dimensions or something. - thanks
"HTAers" is all yours!
OK so I think you are suggesting that I add a strip of cloth to the end of the inlay which will be hidden within the cuff. At the moment I have 4cm in the hem inlay. I want to add another 3cm to the sleeve length leaving 1cm in the inlay. I will need to add 3cm + 1cm seam allowance to the end. This will put the seam just inside the cuff hem fold. Just checking this is right. - Clear gorilla arms!! - will have to change the pattern. And will I have to add to the lining sleeve too in the same way? I do have some fabric from a Dugdales waistcoat pack or a trouser pack I have bought in readiness. Am I better off recutting the sleeves out of this and reordering for the waistcoat/trouser??
Thanks for all the help 馃檪
I would do a rebaste. The canvassing looks good though.
Not too concerned about the shoulder seam placement. Mine are always a little further back off the centre of the shoulder. You do need to drop the front balance by 2cm. You can see at the side vent that it's opening here. This is usually caused by a short front balance
You are right about the sleeve pitch. Try dropping it 1/2" or 1.2cm
The fullness in the back waist is actually back balance. It tends to sit here. Try Shortening the back through the shoulders and back neck by 2cm.
A half inch isn't too much. Be sure to drop the armhole the same amount
I like the length on you.
The pinning at the side seam, is the half back width which is too wide. Take it in through the centre back seam and then adjust the neck hole.
Hi Ken,
Welcome to the forum. I like the term HTAers, I think I'll be using that in the future.
Your sleeves are too short, probably by about 3cm.
You could get away with only 3cm of inlay at the cuff, but the issue will arise with the buttons and buttonhole vent. I'd say is you piece a small section of cloth there, you'll probably get away with it.