In university nearly everytime we are told to make a toille from a calico fabric.
When I take the right measurements from the client, use the right draft (As in the coatmaking series) and enough inlay for the fitting (as in the series) is there any need to use the calico?
I think when I just want to make a normal coat with no variation of darts, seams etc. and make no mistakes in the process it is not necessary to use the calico? Am I right?
Hope you understand what I mean..
Best Regards
Paul
Calico is alright for dress but not great for mens coats as calico is made from cotton and suits are usually wool. It can't be shaped and stretch in the same fashion.
The whole point of leaving inlay here there and everywhere in the initial stages of making a coat, is to avoid the necessity of making a toile. The garment is adjusted on the fly once a basic block (which is all most drafting systems deliver) is cut.
A toile would be advisable perhaps if OCD pattern matching were an issue; definitely when attempting a departure from traditional styling.