Hi guys
Currently cutting a winter coat for myself, I guess roughly peacoat style but maybe a bit smarter (db, sort of peaked lapels but not pointing up, etc.)
I would quite like welted pockets as in my little (poor) sketch below. I'm thinking I still need a dart to get the chest shape I'd like. How does the dart interact with pockets like this? Also does anyone have any guidance on pocket placement in this case?
Thank you!
Robbie
I was at the Fashion City exhibition in London today and this ladies overcoat from the 1940s reminded me of this thread. Somewhere between a displaced princess seam and a side panel seam brought forward slightly (exactly what I mentioned in my previous post), and a bust dart. You can see how inseam pockets could easily be incorporated, though it looks far more elegant with these slanted ones. Unfortunately these photos don't show off the work(wo)manship. They were beautifully executed. Anyway, cutting across the seam/dart clearly isn't problematic. https://flic.kr/p/2pecsb4
https://flic.kr/p/2pea226
One thing I've seen with casual jackets/overcoats, is to replace the chest dart with a princess seam, running into the underarm (which looks a little more masculine); or simply a straight seam from hem to chest into a yoke. The pockets are then 'inseam'. They would be vertical, however, and closer together; though it can look very elegant and kills two birds with one stone. Another thing I've seen is inseam pockets in the front seam of side panels. In both cases, the seam can be manipulated (taken further from/closer to the apex of the chest) in order to get better looking, or more practical, pocket placement.
Hi, roughly speaking: The overcoat is nothing more than just a ****** coat. Which means the dart placement remains the same.
So far, all patterns and examples I have seen tend to place the slanted pocket mouth at the same position as a normal welted pocket. They seem to move up the mouth where it crosses the front dart, the back corner position seems to stay where it is.
I'd just construct the coat for a basted fitting and then attach a mockup patched pocked with basting thread. If the position fits, then you know where to insert your slanted pocket welts. Since your darts are already in place, I don't see any issue with possibly cutting through it - apart from adding some additional strength / reenforcement where you cut the dart.
Cheers
JK