Spalla Camicia or "Shirt Sleeve" in English is a styling detail synonymous with Italian tailoring.
The "waterfal" effect created in the sleeve-head is easy adopted into our method of coat making.
The ripple through the sleeve-head is created by adding lots of fullness to the crown of the sleeve. An additional 1/4" could be added to the height of the crown of the sleeve draft to help generate this effect.
The British style is to add sleeve-head wadding to raise the crown and fill up fullness creating a rope styled look to our sleeves.
Spalla Camicia is the opposite to this.
The sleeve seam is lapped under the canvas and top stitched by a pick stitch in order to hold in place.
I am not sure if anything is added to the sleeve-head, perhaps you could experiment with a narrow strip or bias canvas from front to back pitch, sewn in with the sleeve seam.
Personally I don't like this style, but each to their own. As tailors we are answerable to the client, and at the end of the day we must do as they ask.
Please post pics of the finished product and share with us your experience and method used.
Thank you very much for taking the time to reply. Hopefully the client will push thru with his order. Will share photos and method used if ever. Again, thanl you very much.
Spalla Camicia or "Shirt Sleeve" in English is a styling detail synonymous with Italian tailoring.
The "waterfal" effect created in the sleeve-head is easy adopted into our method of coat making.
The ripple through the sleeve-head is created by adding lots of fullness to the crown of the sleeve. An additional 1/4" could be added to the height of the crown of the sleeve draft to help generate this effect.
The British style is to add sleeve-head wadding to raise the crown and fill up fullness creating a rope styled look to our sleeves.
Spalla Camicia is the opposite to this.
The sleeve seam is lapped under the canvas and top stitched by a pick stitch in order to hold in place.
I am not sure if anything is added to the sleeve-head, perhaps you could experiment with a narrow strip or bias canvas from front to back pitch, sewn in with the sleeve seam.
Personally I don't like this style, but each to their own. As tailors we are answerable to the client, and at the end of the day we must do as they ask.
Please post pics of the finished product and share with us your experience and method used.