Hello Rory
Some advice to rectify the symmetry of these pleated trousers is much appreciated.
The hem shape is round when it should be lying down flat on both the inside land outside leg. The hem width is 16.5” and should be pointing towards the shoe laces when laid flat. This is not the case here as it is rounded.
There is flaring of the fabric outwards from the knee to the hem.
the flaring then indents the straight leg shape of the outside leg.
3. In this posture the hem is seen to lay flat as desired.
this is the back view where there is folds at the knee and then flaring at the hem.
Hello @Rory Duffy - Master Tailor Tautness at the fly and drags on the right leg.
So as I finished sewing the trousers there was tautness at the fly when buttoning, which I discovered was a symptom of the pockets. I had made pockets that seam at the fly and there was not enough fulness which is causing drags as well as tautness around the hips, and thus causing the hem to flare out.
so I un-seamed the pockets at the fly leaving them to drape freely which removed the tautness around the fly and hips.
I still need to add more fulness around the hips to give the trousers from hip to hem a cleaner drape.
Perhaps adding 1/2” -3/4” to the bottom of hem to cover the tongue of the shoe adds to draping from knee to hem.
Any further tips are appreciated.
The over all fit is very good. Congrats to you.
I can't really comment on the flare. Maybe if you provided a pic of the pattern that might help.
The trousers look too short in length. That could be contributing to the drape of the leg.
Is the knee 1 1/2" wider that the hem?
The hem should be angled up 3/8" at the centre front and down 5/8" at the centre back.