I followed TRS 03 and 04 for this one, closed leg with the plus 1" waist to seat variation and the trs32 brace top conversion.
Measurements are:
Waist 49 1/2"
Seat: 49"
Inside leg: 33 1/4"
Rise 10 1/4"
Knee 21"
Hem 19"
Scale 24 1/2"
The seat angle was for a flat seat. No darts on the topside
I've done a toil in calico.
After a few goes at fitting I seem to have an excess of ~2 1/2" on the side-seam above the knee that has to be taken out 1" front the topside, 1 1/2" on the underside. Consequently i think the back darts i think end up Is that to be expected or would or does it suggest I've chosen the wrong figuration?
Any advice before I start cutting my wool would be greatly appreciated.
You probably don't need two darts in the undersides, one or even none would do
Just reading over John's comments. I too think that it is short in fork. I have adjusted the trouser draft system to allow for a longer fork. Rather than adding 1/8 scale to the undersides fork, I have increased it to 1/6", the difference is about 3/4".
You may also be Duck foot. This would explain some of the drags on the side.
Making your own clothes IS an adventure. If you waited for everything to be prefect you'd never wear anything.
Tend to think the waist line height is best equal to the widest part of the bulge.
A flatter seat needs less darts and narrower. Some people don't need any. To appear "normal", for some people, a trace dart is sewn in. Each figure is different. Where the dart is placed andit's angle depends on the figure.
Where there is tightness means not enough cloth. Don't know how much was scooped out the seat seam and if you have inlay to use. Letting out the back fork will help to. Some tailors add half an inch to the side seam incase they need to slide the whole pattern over a bit and refigure from there.
Making your own clothes is an adventure. Plus, there are lots of options you can include throughout the years of making.
Can you post pics without braces? Sometimes the pull of the braces can create fitting issues.