This is the first fitting of a pair of trousers for a new client.
He has straight legs with a regular seat. I followed the system to the letter and this was the result.
It's as close to prefect as you will get most of the time. There is still some shrinking to do but over all I am happy with the result.
Thank you Rory! So if I understood this correctly, we need to manipulate the undersides with the iron because the seat would look messy. Or I guess in other words its to have the cloth fit closer to the b u m?
Hi Solo,
We are I the process of finishing off the pattern drafting video series. It will explain the six leg figurations and the alterations to the pattern needed to get a good fit.
Why is this required? Well, just think to yourself how many images you have seen of trousers and how many of those show the undersides. Not many, if any at all.
The reason why they don't show them is because they look terrible.
If it did look clean there, it was entirely by accident, even on Savile Row.
Our forefathers spent decades just trying to come up with a system to draft patterns. They didn't have time to get them to fit right.
Light weight cloths drape more than heavy weight cloth, so we have more fitting issues now than we ever did.
Cut yourself a pair of 18oz trousers with a 20" hem, and they'll fit beautifully regards of which leg figuration you have.
Take a 10oz and do the same, and you'll have a car crash round your butt.
The Beginners Guide to Pattern drafting video series will teach you to cut the trouser pattern differently for each leg figuration to get a clean seat and the centre crease line in the middle of the foot.
If you look online at the fit of trousers, see how many crease lines sit in the middle of the shoe. If it's not lined up there, it won't be clean fitting in the seat.
I even watched a video on YouTube some years ago of two Asian tailors talking about the overall fit of trousers. When it came to the undersides, they expressed that it should be wrinkle free but failed to show the undersides in the video. I thought it hilarious!
That looks beautiful Rory! It looks really well fit on him. From what I see it looks rather clean. If you don’t mind me asking why is manipulation needed on trousers? And how do you know when to apply it? Is it to make it more close to the calves or thighs? TBH I don’t really understand why it would be necessary.