Hi, I have now made a handfull trousers and would like to try and make a pleated version. I want 2 pleats, one deep and one shallow. How do i alter my pattern to add the pleat? Is it as straight as slashing open the pattern from the knee-line or is there something else that is altered? I am using a straight-legged trouser draft. The cloth I'll be using is a heavy 13oz cavalry twill. Any thoughts? Thanks,
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Yep, it's pretty simple.
Just slash the pattern down the centre crease line and open the pattern your desired pleat depth at the waist line.
Depending on which way you want the pleat to fold will determine which direction you spread the pattern.
If you want the pleat to fold towards the fly (forward pleat), hold the side-seam side on the grain and open the pleat towards the fly.
If you want the pleat to fold towards the side-seam (reserve pleat), hold the fly side on the grain and open the pleat towards the side-seam.
A video demonstrating this will be available in our up and coming Pattern drafting video series.
I shot the final episode today.