Hello everyone
I went through the trouser making video series a few years ago and I've sewn a few pairs of reasonably successful trousers using the draft and method presented there. A friend recently asked me to make a pair for him, so I'm now revisiting the series and there are a few things I'd like to clarify when it comes to the forepart draft 1. Disappearing the dart. In the video series, we draw the pocket opening line to the further edge of the dart, then construct the pocket normally, and finally draw a new, adjusted hip line. Why don't we draw the pocket opening at a wider angle and a sharper hip curve from the very beginning? I cannot se what difference it makes. 2. Front pleat. Let's assume I want a single 1 1/2" pleat at the front of the trousers and I have a 1/2" dart to work in. Which is the better option to take? a. spread the pattern pieces by 1 1/2", fold the pleat, and on top of that disappear the dart the usual way.
b. spread the pattern pieces by 1", but fold a 1 1/2" pleat to cover for the dart. 3. Last point - where do I cut the pattern? Normally, I would cut the pattern pieces along the crease line (so, for a straight leg, the line that goes through 1b). However, I took a quick look at the Pattern drafting book (I will do a deep dive with the respective video series soon) and on p. 30 it says 'use draft as is' but the cut line is shifted to go through point 1. Which should it be?
3. It's the centre crease line.
2. Option B would be best in this example
1. Because there are more than one style of hip pocket. For this series its the slant and the slant is disappeared into the pocket. You can't do that with a straight pocket.
If you are putting in pleats there is no reason for a front dart.
Some tailors, instead of cutting a pattern open, they draw part of the pattern on the cloth, and then, shift the pattern, to draw the rest of it. This way they keep the pattern intact. You can do this for pleats and flares or bells for leg style or fashion. Shift the pattern horizontal for thicker cloth. And, whatever reasons. Sometimes draw part of it, and then, draw connecting lines after shifting.