Hello,
I‘ve just drafted trousers for myself (a woman), and I’m quite happy with the fit (I checked my pattern with a toile version). However, I’m still undecided about the best way to go regarding the waistband (which will sit quite high, at my natural waist) : should I draft it straight (and maybe shape it afterwards with some iron work) or shaped ? And what should I use to support the waistband ? My supplier sells a stiff interfacing which is intended to be used on the straight-grain, for men’s unshaped trousers’ waistband. Thus it does not shape easily...
I know this post is slightly off-road, mostly because the video series does not cover ladies’ trousers (yet ?). However, I’m hoping I won’t be the only one interested in the answer !
Mathilde
You've probably sorted out your problem by now, but the more the waistband sits towards the natural waist, the less shaping is required. Straight should be fine at the natural waist As for supporting shaped waistbands, Petersham ribbon (milliners' suppliers sell it) is sometimes used. Either as an interfacing or an actual facing. You won't get such a definite, crisp edge, but it's very easy to stretch with the iron. My trousers sit on the high hip (I have very long legs so a high waistband doesn't suit me). I always have to stretch the interfacing's lower edge. I use a wide, cotton twill tape (I think it's used to tape overcoats) then face this with Petersham. Again, no razor sharp edge, but very comfortable. Perhaps more of a casual look, but the twill does stretch/curve nicely along its lower edge. All manner of canvases can also be used for interfacings.