Hello all, wow looks like I'm the first post in this forum.
I'm doing my first trouser and waistcoat fittings separately. I basically know what to do with the trousers. I might make the waistcoat 1" longer or so, although I'm not sure if it's better to add that length by taking it out at the shoulder seam, or just letting out some of the inlay in the hem? My main question is how to alter the centerback waist because I have a pretty extreme swayback posture, and I know I am about to run into the same issue when I try to fit the jacket I'm working on. Is this simply a matter of bringing it in more in the center back seam at the waist? Any suggestions or advice?
Thank you for the excellent advice Jeroen!
Yes, I did drop the neck and and shoulder points 3/8"
I think I know what caused the pooling in the back of the neck. When Rory drafted the pattern in the video series, he took off i think 3/8" or so at the center back neck because he has a forward head posture. I did the same because I thought my posture was similar, but I don't think I should have.
Anyways, I followed your advice and raised the shoulder points for my higher right shoulder. I also added about 1/4" to the front at the shoulder ( I would have done 1/2", but was running out of inlay after raising the right shoulder). I also lowered the back neck 1/2". Then I took it in the lining at the sides and a little from the center back, and I'm happy now with how it fits in the waist. I also added 1/2" to the length, taking it out of the hem. Here are some photos of the corrections.
Overall, it's looking much better. I think I will redraw the curve at the back of. the neck, so that it is a little lower in the center back neck, and curves more to meet the shoulder point. The one last thing I'm wondering about is how the front edges are still close to my neck, so maybe I will just reshape that part slightly, taking in 3"8 or so from the front edge.
Thank you for the great advice!