It looks fantastic, well done! Personally, I'd leave the shoulder width. If the seam rides more on the shoulder it can pull on the sleeve, creating tightness. And as mentioned, it affects the overall balance (might draw attention to your hips, making them look wider than they are). I often find that after completing projects, all I can see are errors and minor nigles. However (unless I've really messed up), those doubts all but disapear over time.

Worth renting: https://vimeo.com/ondemand/omast/124502792

My replies keep getting blocked, unfortunately.

I'll try posting this in parts, due to spam issues. There can be a difference with the sleeve head, i.e. Spalla Camicia (done like a welted, shirt seam); and boat-shaped 'barchetta' pockets (which I do like and recently did something similar on a shirt). However, what I mostly see across the country is very traditional; the more 'relaxed' style only having cosmetic differences from a drape cut.

If you're reducing circumference by such a slight amount, then mostly it will be done from the knee (or slightly above) downwards. So personally, I'd take the same amount off outer and inner seams, otherwise you're shifting the crease line, effectively repositioning the leg. With such a small amount, it probably won't make much difference though.

I was at the Fashion City exhibition in London today and this ladies overcoat from the 1940s reminded me of this thread. Somewhere between a displaced princess seam and a side panel seam brought forward slightly (exactly what I mentioned in my previous post), and a bust dart. You can see how inseam pockets could easily be incorporated, though it looks far more elegant with these slanted ones. Unfortunately these photos don't show off the work(wo)manship. They were beautifully executed. Anyway, cutting across the seam/dart clearly isn't problematic. https://flic.kr/p/2pecsb4 https://flic.kr/p/2pea226

One thing I've seen with casual jackets/overcoats, is to replace the chest dart with a princess seam, running into the underarm (which looks a little more masculine); or simply a straight seam from hem to chest into a yoke. The pockets are then 'inseam'. They would be vertical, however, and closer together; though it can look very elegant and kills two birds with one stone. Another thing I've seen is inseam pockets in the front seam of side panels. In both cases, the seam can be manipulated (taken further from/closer to the apex of the chest) in order to get better looking, or more practical, pocket placement.

Incidentally, seat expansion can be measured. With the measure round the seat and to one side, you gently lower yourself into a chair, releasing the grip a little to allow the tape to expand. In my case, expansion is three inches, but further ease is required to allow for the material that curves into the crease of the backside. For my own draft, I use 4 inches in total across the seat (2 inches on the pattern). It can be a little tricky taking the measurement (you need to ensure that the measure doesn't slip out of position), so a best of three approach is sometimes required.

PS, most youtube vids demonstrating the aforementioned stitches stab the cloth, due to them being used for embroidery. You don't have to, though, they work fine sewing laterally.

I had the same problem with a pair of trousers earlier this year. I ended up reinforcing the machined seam with a row of hand-stitching. I used thicker, cotton thread: Guterman 30 wt (though it might have been 12 wt, I can't remember). It's sometimes referred to as 'Sulky' (a type of embroidery thread, apparently). I used stem stitch. It's the same as back stitch, but done from the other side of the cloth (so to speak), which allows one to direct the thread and make a neater job of it. Outline stitch is the same, but the thread is directed from above, rather than below (check some youtube vids and you'll see what I mean). Which one you use depends on any curvature. You direct the thread in the opposite direction to a curve in the seam, otherwise the end row of stitching will have an angular look. Hand-sewing supposedly has more give, which was my reasoning for doing the above. It worked, but the material was quite sturdy (cotton drill). Might simply be better to add a little more ease across the seat. Or stay the seam and use stronger machine thread?

Those horizontal stripes look fantastic! I'm currently doing a shirt like that.

There's a method in a book I own that I've always fancied trying. Every panel is totally lined. The relevant lining is placed on each piece, right sides together, the 'long' seams sewn/overlocked, then everything is bagged-out, leaving all seam edges totally enclosed. There's a bit more to it than that, of course, and obviously the edges will be bent backwards, creating bulk, but with thin cloth this wouldn't be an issue. Plus seam allowances need to be larger. Overkill, perhaps, but it demonstrates that lining the backs isn't an issue. The advice in the book is to sew darts into the lining separately.

Personally, I need to literally touch/feel interlinings to get an idea if they're suitable. Often when I've bought stuff on eBay/online without first ordering a sample (usually because this option wasn't given), I've ended up with junk. Curtain shops also sell Domette, BTW. The thinner end of things, but that's fine for a summer suit (you can always double-up the cloth if too thin).

The problem with Jersey is that it will stretch out, won't be as soft and might also be prone to wrinkling. Be aware that a lot of batting can contain polyester, which will probably make things warmer. Flannel is pretty easy to find in 100% cotton and in different thicknesses. As for suitability, you'll just have to see what's on offer. Good luck!

Quilting suppliers would probably be the best place to find flannel/batting/fluffy interfacing. Cotton Jersey (T shirt material) would be a poor substitute IMO.

Go along to your local sewing centre/fabric shop and see what they have in the way of suitable interlinings. Interlinings tend to be fluffier, so should work as a substitute. Look for cotton flannel or cotton batting? Try some samples to see how it handles.

Ah, I see what you mean now. In which case, doubly well-done! 😁

Very nice style, the cut suits you. Well done! There seems to be a tiny pattern mismatch at the CB? Not that it matters (it's very minor and a coat will cover things). Apologies if you know this already, but the following method (used by many) is a really good way to ensure matching panels on the fold (free to watch, but you have to login): https://vimeo.com/25454283 I'm really nit-picking though. I'd be really proud of these if I were you! 🙂

Very nice! Well done.

Roller feet are really good at preventing creep, though you may have the same issue as the foot you filed down: they can be a tiny bit 'proud' so tension has to be released, to prevent scarring the cloth. How much this is an issue (if at all) depends on the material; and you may still need to keep things a little taught under the foot, despite the roller. The only reason I know this stuff is because I had the same issue with some thick, cotton drill. That was a nightmare I'd like to forget!