Thank you for your kind words! It seems that I am trying to chase perfection but I am quite happy with how it fits. I will leave the back for now and reevaluate when I gain my weight back, but for future reference, what do you mean by squaring the neck? I will look into the back neck. I agree that something needs to be opened up there.

The horizontal lines below the back neckline means that it is pulling horizontal, so I am thinking it has to do more with the width of the back neckline that needs to be increased. I have around that much ease in the back shoulder seam. Is that what you mean? or further stretching of the shoulder line which I believe was done on the shoulder of the front garment and the canvas. Could you explain what you mean? As for the back, I think I will leave it because if it is a balance issue, then I think its fine for now because I lost a lot of muscle mass in my upper body. I will have to reevaluate once the gyms open up lol. That is a good idea. I am curious about how to intentionally keep the back vents down so I will make sure I have a thread up before I attach the lining

Black suit Grey suit

I dont think its getting flatter than this, I think it has to do with the flannel cover cloth, I gave an inch of fullness but maybe that was too much

hmm I will canvas again. I already trimmed it down but we shall see

I did not shrink anything, and I have not opened the shoulder because I am happy with how the pattern fits me and also I am not sure how I would have to adjust the pattern for it (I did not draft my pattern). I dont think that would be an issue though. The last jacket I made was perfectly fine but I did not draw the lining OUT at the break line, I misunderstood the video and instead I drew it in lol

I agree I am surprised it wasn't shown in the videos or I might have missed it. I have done those stitches. can finally remove those basting threads now 😏

wow that is a great solution and will make it easier to set the pads nicely! Thank you

actually, sewing with the back bodice on the bottom for both sides doesnt sound right because I will start from the top and bottom for the next one

@Benjamin I see what you mean by balance now. My pattern has a lot of extra length in the upper back to compensate for my rounded back but i've lost a lot of weight in the past couple months from being in lock down. Still, the twist should not be happening if sewn correctly. I've followed the notches accurately Perhaps, I sewn one side with the back bodice on the bottom and sewn one side with the back bodice on top and the 'twist' we see is the feed dogs at work? is this possible? I will sew the next one with the back bodice on the bottom for both sides.

Sorry, I am not following. If you rotate the sleeve backwards (rotating it clockwise if you are looking at the left sleeve/body infront of you), or counter clockwise if you are looking at the right sleeve/body infront of you), wouldn't the sleeve back pitch be set lower and the sleeve front pitch set lower? Also, if not the shoulder seam to assess the pitch, how would you assess it? are there any books that talks about this in detail?

Also, when you mean the balance is off, what do you mean? are you saying that I've sewn the right and left side seams differently? I've identified a lot of things thanks to you guys.

Benjamin, now that I look at the cuffs, they do seem to hang a bit low and I shall shorten the sleeves :). Benjamin and Rory: I am not understanding what to do with the pitch. So, the problem is that my sleeves are pitched a bit too forward. The pitch is the angle of the sleeve (neutral pitch being where the sleeve cap notch matches the shoulder seam of the armhole). So, when you mean to 'drop' the front pitch, do you mean to match the sleeve cap notch 3/4" infront of the shoulder line seam? Also, when I am to raise the back pitch, where exactly am I raising it from and where? or am i rotating everything 3/4" forward? Picture for armhole and sleeve reference, black line that comes out of the circle is the sleeve notch, and the red line inside the circle is the armhole shoulder line, front, and back notch. is this what you guys mean?

Yes that is correct, I have not drafted the pattern using the video but these are patterns I already had and wish to use. My patterns do not have any inlay in them so I think it will be necessary to add some extra to the neckline of the front/back patterns.. but I am not sure where and how much to add.

awesome. Would love to see it one day.

Yes I was referring to the wrinkles below the pocket. Those wrinkles appeared when I pressed the canvas (there was some fullness to it that I thought shouldn't be there). I will try pressing it over a tailors ham. So 3/4-1" is what I will aim for the next time. The front dart is curved yes. There is a princess seam there because I have a 42 inch chest and a 30 inch waist. The person who made my patterns thought that a conventional dart would not be sufficient for the shaping I wanted. Thank you

I have preshrunk the canvas before attaching it and accidently got some brown marks on the canvas because I just wanted to make sure it was preshrunk. I dont think I would like to reinstall the canvas. "Fulling in' do you mean you push in the canvas in the direction the iron is coming from? what you've described seems that it would just flatten it. I've tried to press it out yes but it didn't do anything. I will try to press it again when the front is finished over a tailors ham. Thank you. I have definitely learned a lot from this jacket, next time I will make sure the canvas is installed better.

Thank you