What you can expect from
the HTA
Savile Row Tailoring has a tradition that dates back to 1806 when Savile Row’s founder, Henry Poole, opened the first tailoring house there. It soon became a beacon to the rich and influential, with many of the aristocracy frequenting Henry Poole’s to avail themselves of custom fashion. Soon other tailors pulled in by the draw of Poole’s success set up shop along this now famed Mayfair street.
Throughout the years, skills have been passed from master to apprentice. The apprentice becomes the master and then takes on an apprentice of his own continuing their own cycle. In modern times, tailoring apprenticeships may become a thing of the past. At The Handcraft Tailor Academy, we’ve constructed an apprentice-style system of online cutting and tailoring courses making it easier to access the knowledge of a master tailor.
Rory’s system of making is not unique to him. It is based on the learnings and wisdom from his former master, Henry Poole coat maker, Paul Frearson. Rory, now a master tailor himself, is passing on the same teachings making the concept of an apprenticeship more accessible and readily available to anyone who wants it having created step-by-step guides for aspiring (and even seasoned) tailors to learn from.
Students have the option of creating a three-piece bespoke suit with an array of courses Rory offers. It is suggested to start with Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear because this is the base on which the rest of a student’s tailoring knowledge will be built. Understanding the pattern is the bones of a structure giving the student an insight to understanding a garment literally inside out. This can naturally be followed up with any or all other courses – Waistcoat Making – the Savile Row Style, The Making of a Savile Row Coat and Men’s Bespoke Trouser Making.
Available only as a one-to-one course, Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear is taught through Skype video calls which can be recorded for an enhanced learning experience. This course is supported by our book Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear – the Imperial System, in which you will learn how to measure, assess figures and draft trousers, waistcoats, coats, overcoats and tailcoat patterns for regular and disproportionate figures.
As innovators we are always seeking out new ways to teach the art of handcraft tailoring to our growing number of global followers. That’s why, in 2020 we launched our first video series, The Making of a Savile Row Coat by subscription on Vimeo Pro. This was quickly followed by our trouser making series, Trouser Making Menswear- Belt Loop Style.
Waistcoat Making
If you’re new to the trade and want to start making clothes, we suggest you start with the waistcoat. In comparison with the coat making course and the trouser making course, the waistcoat is a surprisingly easy garment to make. Within weeks you will have mastered the basic skills and start learning to make your own waistcoat.
Trouser Making
For those of you who are more adventurous or have a good standing with the basic skills, you might want to start with the trouser. Trousers are predominantly a machine made garment. The vast majority of the construction is done on a straight stitch sewing machine. If all you have is a domestic machine, that’s not a problem. Many students are masters of their domestic and it’s important to be comfortable with the machine you are working with if you want a clean look to your garment.
Straight seams are so important, by straight we mean consistent to the edge taking an even â…œ” off and following the curves in the cloth.
Some hand sewing skills will be necessary as all the waistband linings, fly, pockets and hems are sewn by hand.
Our video series Trouser Making Menswear, Belt Loop Style is available by subscription on Vimeo Pro alongside our coat making series.
Coat Making
If coat making is your passion, then look no further than our online video series The Making of a Savile Row Coat (click here for How to Make a Ladies Jacket). With over 70 videos and almost 24 hours of footage, this truly is a step-by-step guide to making an iconic men’s garment. Every well dressed man dons a tailored jacket. Though we do suggest you hone your skills on either the waistcoat or trouser, we know many of you just are anxious to start on the tailored coat.
We suggest that you start off by practising some of the key skills before jumping in and starting the full coat making process. There’s a lot to be said about taking a cautious approach and practising details like pockets and buttonholes. Hone your machine skills by practising some seam stitching, keeping the stitch line straight and sewing two pieces of cloth to the same length.
Pockets are also a great way to increase your confidence, starting and stopping in the right place and sewing an even edge.
Furthermore, buttonholes are a fantastic way to sharpen your hand sewing techniques. Remember: it takes at least a hundred holes to make the perfect buttonhole.
Our promise is to keep adding new video series to our Vimeo Channel giving the option that any garment you wish to make will have an accompanying video series at your disposal provided by The HTA.
Join our forum to share or read about experiences with our online community, ask questions and get answers, and discuss share ideas with other students and tailors alike.